manual says to check play at 3 and 9 o clock and 12 and 6.

 

a lot of play at 3 and 9  but none at 12 and 6. checked the other side and no play at all.

 

is this the wheel bearing if there is no play at 12 and 6 and an axle problem?

 

I just noticed a vibration at 55 mph. it goes away at about 52 or 57 mph. its only at about 55 so that's why I started checking. I just changed the wheels so im suspecting a balance problem.

 

but what about the excess play at 3 and 9 oclock? wheel bearing? if so how much could this cost ?

I would check the tie-rod ends if 3-9 play was evident.

vibrations that are speed dependant around 55~65 mph are ussually tire balance more than suspension.  Although wornout shocks/struts can make it worse.

A worn out ball joint can cause vibration as well.

ok. thanks all. I looked at everything else but really don't know how to see if a problem exists unless if it is obvious.

I read in how to keep your Subaru alive that a worn wheel bearing should have play all around. mine is only at 3-9 . there is no play at 12-6. is this right?

 

im sure if I brought it to shop they would suggest both axle, ball joint, and wheel bearing replacement. also tranny, wheels and motor. ha ha.

Have someone move the affected wheel while you watch things under the vehicle.

gloyale

 

I agree. the vibration is most likely from the recent used wheel and tire. no vibration before install just a couple hundred miles ago. .

did everything suggested. I think it is not the wheel bearing. both the axle and the other bar with the boot have excess play in them. not sure if that's normal. the other side was tight for comparison.

Other bar with boot.... Tie rod?  Those should not be having play.

 

steering wheel jiggling in a narrow speed range has always been tire balance / bent rim or combo of the 2 for me.

play at 3 and 9 is classic for a bad tie rod.  that is the rod that goes from the steering rack to the front of the wheel bearing housing.  the inner tie rod end is within a boot, and the outer tie rod end is visible and bolted to the front of the wheel bearing housing.   there shouldn't be any play at either end of the tie rod, if there is then you need to replace whichever end is worn.  generally if you jack up the car you can lay underneath and wiggle the tire while holding on to the actual rod section of the tie rod.  it should be apparent which end is bad.  theres a special tool to do the inner ones, though you could likely make something if your crafty enough.

 

having a slight amount of play in the axle isn't uncommon.  unless you have other symptoms of a bad axle I wouldn't mess with them.

 

id agree about the tires being a likely culprit, but if you are getting tie rod play you should fix that asap.  they're pretty robust but an actual failure where the rod separates will likely throw you into the ditch or rip out other suspension parts/fenders.

that is some great info. thanks.

 

now I can do those checks.

for everyone with a similar problem. found an excellent videos from chris fix on youtube on how to tell if you have a bad inner/outer tie rod and also a vidro on how to replace.

 

its easier for me to see how instead on reading how.