jmp6889928 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 OK guys, As I said in my introduction, I am NOT a transmission guy, so hopefully some of you have run into this problem before and can help direct me to a solution. I picked up the above mentioned vehicle about 2 weeks ago knowing it had transmission shifting into 4th gear issues. I bought it for an extremely low price because it needed cam seals so badly that one of them had actually fallen out. After doing all of the engine work and installing a complete timing set and cam/crank seals, I have the engine running great and I drove it and the kid didn't lie to me...LOL. It won't shift into 4th gear. SO...when I picked it up, it had CEL with about 5 codes set (like a moron, I erased them...kill me know and get it over with...LOL) and one of the codes mentioned "Torque Converter Circuit open" which would make me believe that there is a solenoid that's failed. Based on what I found in research, there is a Duty Solenoid B (Lock-Up) which I would have a tendency to think could be the culprit, but again, I know not much about automatic transmissions (I can build MEAN C4 and C6 Fords, or excellent Powerglides we used to run in our dragsters...LOL) that use a bunch of electric solenoids and sensors. HELP ! ! Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Perhaps the control unit is seeing a low ATF temperature. http://subarufanclub.cz/wiki/_media/navody/4eat/subaru_4eat.pdf You may find this helpful. Probably irrelavant,but,I once had an Isuzu trooper that would not shift into 4th because of a faulty ENGINE temperature sensor. Customer diagnosed and supplied a trans only to have the same problem after replacement! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmp6889928 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Thanks a bunch for the info on the 4EAT. I might just be resigned to take it to a <sigh> transmission shop rather than messing with it myself. They can scan it and see if the TCM is actually doing all of the stuff it's supposed to and from there, then go to components. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Always erase multiple CEL codes and see what comes back. Some codes might only be stored because someone was unplugging sensors at random in an attempt to diagnose a problem, or be just a one-time issue that has nothing to do with the price of tea in china. If you erase 8 codes and only 2 come back, those are the ones that are a current issue. CEL codes and trans codes are not the same. The trans control unit stores its own codes. Find an FSM for that year (there are links posted around here if you search) and look up which pin to ground in the 6-pin diagnostic plug and the AT temp light will flash any stored TCU codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmp6889928 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Always erase multiple CEL codes and see what comes back. Some codes might only be stored because someone was unplugging sensors at random in an attempt to diagnose a problem, or be just a one-time issue that has nothing to do with the price of tea in china. If you erase 8 codes and only 2 come back, those are the ones that are a current issue. CEL codes and trans codes are not the same. The trans control unit stores its own codes. Find an FSM for that year (there are links posted around here if you search) and look up which pin to ground in the 6-pin diagnostic plug and the AT temp light will flash any stored TCU codes. Good information and I thank you a bunch. The AT Temp light does flash 16 times rapidly now when the car starts and then goes out. I was not aware of the grounding pin availability of a built in code reader so I'll certainly look it up. The biggest issue here, at least for this time of year, is the cold. I don't have much heat in my garage and I also have a TON of other work to do in testing some turbos so I may just resign myself to taking it to a shop because of the time factor. The car is in very nice shape-not a speck of rust on it anywhere, even underneath and only small door dings and dents, which are defninitely worth repairing. It's the Forest Green over Silver but it's a Limited so it has a gold stripe above the Silver, which I've not seen in any pick and pull yards. I had to put on a tailgate (found the correct color and mint condition with a rear wiper that works perfectly for $65.00) and many of the interior pieces were in pretty dim shape (found them ALL for $55.00), I paid $255 for the timing kit and new thermostat, and it has that infamous Subaru piston slap when it starts, but it runs perfectly after about 2 seconds, so for an around town car until I find another engine, it will be fine. All new brake rotors and pads and all of the calipers are in fine shape and $110.00 later and it stops on a dime and spits out nickels. All in all, I have not much money in this car so if I have to pay someone to diagnose the transmission, it most likely will be worth it. Once I know if it's a solenoid or sensor, then I can change it, but the time of doing all the diagnostics is what I don't have. If it's a cashed transmission, then I'll begin the search and find one and just change it out on a weekend and be good to go (hopefully...LOL... ) Thanks again much for the reply. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.