jmp6889928

Split them and start an aluminum scrap pile. Find old wheels and other aluminum and when you get a good amount, it's worth it to take it down for scrap.

When you get the pan off, you'll see more of what I mean.

Oil goes through the engine as it's picked up by the oil pickup tube before it gets to the oil filter.

Swaybar needs to be recentered on the vehicle. Perrin includes special spacers for their sway bar end links that are designed to take up the space but not interfere with the heim joint movement. I would suggest a call to them and see if you can purchase the set of spacers. I have them on my car and they work exceptionally well. Good luck.

As I said, bought this new in October of 2004 and have kept it ever since. Done a LOT of work to it in the suspension department, engine department, and even some in the body department. Here's a few photos to look at: A couple of shots with different wheels, a couple of shots on the...HEYYYY....My grandson photobombed this damn thing...oh well...LOL.....couple of shots on the track, and a couple of other shots...

AMS cam tools are what I have that holds them in place. They look like these: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/AMS-A0383-4B-1A-Cam-Gear-Removal-Tool I just did cam seals and crank seal and complete timing belt kit on my 1998 2.5 DOHC and used these and they worked great. They work better on the AVCS engines because the gears are a bit easier to grab, but they do work fine on the older engines as well. If you are working on a later model EJ engine and you have cam bolts that are socket head, you also really need to have this: http://ultimatetoolco.com/koken10mm and use it with an impact wrench to remove cam gear bolts. I just did a set about 45 minutes ago and pop, off they come, and when it's time to put them back on, hold with the AMS cam tool and tighten up to torque and you're good to go. Not cheap tools, but definitely worth it to have them in your box. If you can't afford them, perhaps you can have a couple of guys that you know that are Subaru enthusiasts pool together and purchase a set. I know of several groups that have done that and it makes it much better for everyone. If you don't have a group that you hang with, I can loan you mine IF you promise to get them back to me ASAP as I'm doing a rebuild on an EJ257 right now and will need them in the next week or so. For putting on the timing belt, again, if you have the cam bolts that are socket head, you need the Company 23 tool and you can buy it here: http://www.company23.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_60&product_id=62 It puts the timing belt on correctly first time every time and makes life a LOT easier...LOL. Let me know what you have and I can box them up in a USPS fits/ships box and you'll have them on Wednesday. Good luck.

One last thing I forgot to mention-in reading your original post, you state that you believe the replacement turbo will be off of a WRX. Make sure it's a flange style turbo and not a nipple style. The nipple style compressor housing is the WRX/STi style for the center mounted throttle body intake manifold while the flange style compressor housing (which is what you have) is for the TMIC that mounts directly to the turbo compressor housing on one end and the throttle body on the other end with a TB to TMIC hose. You CANNOT remove the housing from one and just put it on the other. There are quite a lot of differences and it must be clocked correctly and sealed. I can take a look at what you have if you wish and let you know the best course of action. Send me photos of the turbos to jmp6889928@gmail.com and I'll get back to you via email with recommendations. Legacy GT's used the plastic intake manifold with the throttle body at the DS end pointed at an angle towards the brake booster and it's easiest to find a VF40, VF46, VF52, or even a Td04H flanged housing and just do a replace. If I can help you on this, don't hesitate to ask. I done...ohh...say...300 replacements or so...LOL. I have a couple of tricks that you'll find useful. Good luck.

Good information and I thank you a bunch. The AT Temp light does flash 16 times rapidly now when the car starts and then goes out. I was not aware of the grounding pin availability of a built in code reader so I'll certainly look it up. The biggest issue here, at least for this time of year, is the cold. I don't have much heat in my garage and I also have a TON of other work to do in testing some turbos so I may just resign myself to taking it to a shop because of the time factor. The car is in very nice shape-not a speck of rust on it anywhere, even underneath and only small door dings and dents, which are defninitely worth repairing. It's the Forest Green over Silver but it's a Limited so it has a gold stripe above the Silver, which I've not seen in any pick and pull yards. I had to put on a tailgate (found the correct color and mint condition with a rear wiper that works perfectly for $65.00) and many of the interior pieces were in pretty dim shape (found them ALL for $55.00), I paid $255 for the timing kit and new thermostat, and it has that infamous Subaru piston slap when it starts, but it runs perfectly after about 2 seconds, so for an around town car until I find another engine, it will be fine. All new brake rotors and pads and all of the calipers are in fine shape and $110.00 later and it stops on a dime and spits out nickels. All in all, I have not much money in this car so if I have to pay someone to diagnose the transmission, it most likely will be worth it. Once I know if it's a solenoid or sensor, then I can change it, but the time of doing all the diagnostics is what I don't have. If it's a cashed transmission, then I'll begin the search and find one and just change it out on a weekend and be good to go (hopefully...LOL... ) Thanks again much for the reply. John

The EGT is used by the computer but if you put a 2.2K ohm resistor (available in a 5 pack from Radio Shack for about $3.95) between the two leads, it will make the ECM happy that everything is running as efficiently as possible. It tricks the ECM into thinking it's directly in the middle of best operating temperature.

Run constantly when engine is running.

Correct on lifting the engine to remove the pan. Take the nuts off the motor mounts and take one end off on upper torsion mount (dogbone), and then use a floor jack with a small piece of plywood between the jack pad and oil pan and lift the engine up out of the cradle. Put a small chunk of 2x4 under each mount on top of subframe. Should have easy access to all pan bolts and plenty of room to remove the pan. EGT was on 05 for sure but i don't know for sure on your model year. If so, it would be located in the up pipe. Do a resistor mod and throw the damn EGT away.

Thanks a bunch for the info on the 4EAT. I might just be resigned to take it to a <sigh> transmission shop rather than messing with it myself. They can scan it and see if the TCM is actually doing all of the stuff it's supposed to and from there, then go to components. Thanks again.

Hi again everyone, Checked the fan relays and all is good. I remove the #1 relay and the fans quit, so I know that the relay is passing current. I switched out several other relays to make sure and all works. Temperature sensor on the cross pipe? My guess is that it would be the multiple wire sensor that feeds the ECM? Thanks guys.

OK guys, As I said in my introduction, I am NOT a transmission guy, so hopefully some of you have run into this problem before and can help direct me to a solution. I picked up the above mentioned vehicle about 2 weeks ago knowing it had transmission shifting into 4th gear issues. I bought it for an extremely low price because it needed cam seals so badly that one of them had actually fallen out. After doing all of the engine work and installing a complete timing set and cam/crank seals, I have the engine running great and I drove it and the kid didn't lie to me...LOL. It won't shift into 4th gear. SO...when I picked it up, it had CEL with about 5 codes set (like a moron, I erased them...kill me know and get it over with...LOL) and one of the codes mentioned "Torque Converter Circuit open" which would make me believe that there is a solenoid that's failed. Based on what I found in research, there is a Duty Solenoid B (Lock-Up) which I would have a tendency to think could be the culprit, but again, I know not much about automatic transmissions (I can build MEAN C4 and C6 Fords, or excellent Powerglides we used to run in our dragsters...LOL) that use a bunch of electric solenoids and sensors. HELP ! ! Thanks guys.

Here's the threads on www.legacygt.com to remove the banjo bolt filters with excellent photographs as well as descriptions. I'm not sure if your particular model has them or not, but best to look and you need to make sure and flush the OCV lines anyway. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html?t=222758&highlight=Remove+banjo+bolt+filters Also look at post number 2 from Hammerdown as he has several links there to alternate ways to remove the DS banjo filter. I suggest removing the rear banjo bolt at the turbo (where Covertrrussian has circled in red) and checking to see if it has a filter in it or not. If not, then perhaps your particular vehicle does not have them. Good luck,

Hi Mike, No need for that, honestly. If you follow what I have said above it's actually not nearly as difficult as it reads. It's a lot of work, but it's pretty basic work and not a lot of truly intricate or delicate stuff to worry about. Normally when a turbo blows (read "Grenades") the stuff goes right out the bottom of the turbo and right into the oil pan and the pickup can grab it. If you didn't drive it very far or if it just blew with a chuffing sound and started to screech and you stopped and shut it off, you most likely have no issues with the rest of the engine. The problem is that it's a crapshoot if you don't do the stuff above. If you do it (the stuff above), it takes some time, and it is some work, but you know for sure what you have then and where you're starting from (and it's not a $5K complete engine rebuild/shortblock replacement). The Blackstone Labs UOA are the best tool you can have. They are a no BS company and they do such a great job of explaining what and where and why and how, that you'll be really pleased when you read the report. If I can help, PM me and I'll give you a number you can text me at for questions, but if you're mechanically inclined and have done work on cars before, it's basically simple but time consuming work. I suggest you go to www.nasioc.com and look at some walkthroughs for the removal of the pan and some other stuff, but you'll find them to be easy and self explanatory. The biggest thing is TAKE YOUR TIME, CLEAN-CLEAN-CLEAN and CLEAN some more, and then reassemble carefully and deliberately. If something doesn't look like you think it should, take it back apart and redo it to make sure. Again, it's about $5K out of your pocket if you try to shortcut it and it's not worth it. Good luck.

Kalamazoo here too. Welcome.

Hi there, Been around quite a long time on several other Subaru sites but have come here with a couple of questions on my older Subarus. I do custom turbo work on the 4th Gens and newer LGT, WRX, and STi cars but I can also do some of the turbos on the older models as well-Td04 and Td05 Mitsubishi based as well as the IHI models. I currently have the only two ball bearing IHI VF40 turbos in existence and I'm experimenting with them as we speak. My goal is to build these as the alternative to larger turbos as these can utilize the stock fuel systems to their fullest rather than having to change injectors and fuel pump, not to mention it retains the stock appearance and fitment as the car was designed. A good dyno tune and it should yield about another 10% across the board, both in spool and top end. I have a bunch of photos of the custom units I build and can send some via email if you PM me. More details on this to come. I am a regular on www,legacygt.com if you want to check me out on there under the same username, and I do a lot of helpline work with members there and for some on nasioc as well. I'm NOT a transmission expert by any means, nor can I rattle off all of the engine numbers and know the sizes, but I've done a lot of practical repair work and can generally help with questions and am most willing to. If I don't know the answer to something, I'm the first to say so too, but I'm here to learn as well. I look forward to learning more and I've recently begun looking at the older Subaru models and finding them to be quite interesting and in reading some of the threads, finding that some exemplary work is being done on older models that at the time, I was not terribly impressed with, but have since become more and more interested, so I read and look and offer my $.02 when I think it's appropriate. I have 3 Subarus currently-a 2005 Legacy GT 2.6 Turbo (2.6 because it's bored over to 100mm with fully forged bottom end <CP pistons, Manley H-Beam rods, King Race Bearings, STi Forged and Nitrided crank, Mahle rings, ARP case studs>, Brian Crower cams, springs and Ti retainers and a lot more done to it) and it currently has one of my custom VF40 turbos on it but I have several others I've recently built that need to be tested, so I'll most likely be swapping turbos out regularly. At any rate, glad to be here and look forward to reading and participating. Thanks, John

You're far better off to supercharge it than to try to do everything necessary to convert it to a turbo. Supercharging is 6-8 psi but it has no lag at all. Turbo has lag but it can push upwards of 16 psi + and unless you reduce compression, you'll be blowing the heads right off of it. Nonetheless, if you're feeling froggy and want to jump....here's a link to read about it and you can find more if you google "Subaru 6 cylinder turbocharge kit" http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/3607-turbo-6-cylinder-boxer-sick.html

ARP head studs and use stock Subaru head gaskets.. Send the heads to a machine shop and have them completely refinished so you're starting out with all fresh.

The issue is that when the turbo fails (generally if it grenades) it dumps the materials from the grinding and hammering directly into the oil pan where the metal is picked up by your oil pickup and sent through the system and into rods/mains/cams/heads. If you caught it soon enough and shut it off very quickly after hearing it fail, you can generally do what I outline below and usually be OK. Just take your time and clean everything as thoroughly as possible and closely inspect everything. Immediately go to www.blackstone-labs.com and order a used oil analysis test kit and be ready to use it. These people can tell you exactly what's going on inside of your engine based on the metal and material content in the used oil and can save you a lot of grief. Drain your existing oil through a piece of women's nylon hose and check to see what ends up there as far as flakes or metal chunks. You'll want the Blackstone Labs kit for the next change. Remove the pan and clean and flush it thoroughly. Inspect closely for any flakes or chunks of metal. I clean them about half a dozen times with gasoline and also solvent. Remove the oil pickup and clean and inspect closely. There have been issues with earlier models having the oil pickup cracking at the weld and when this happens, it's the end of the engine. You can purchase aftermarket pickups from KillerB (expensive) or from Covert Performance and Moroso (much easier pricing to swallow) and they are made better than the stock Subaru pickups. Remove the banjo bolt filters if applicable and throw them away and do not replace them-reuse the bolts. There are a couple of write ups on removing the front banjo bolt filter on the DS head to OCV line on www.legacygt.com that can help you out immensely. If I can find the link, I'll post it for you. Remove the PS side head oil feed line for turbo/OCV and completely flush the line out and make sure it's clean before reinstall. Replace the oil cooler as this is a place for chunks and flakes to hide and you can never flush them out. Once you have all of this done, reinstall everything and install your turbo with new drain hose and clamps. If the drain hose comes off, it's the end of the engine. Refill the engine with cheap oil as you're only going to run it for a little while to use as a flush. Any dino oil can work (Walmart, Meijers, or any other inexpensive..HAHA...right...oil) because it will only be run for about an hour and this you'll take a sample of and send to Blackstone Labs. Prime the turbo with a turkey baster or syringe full of fresh oil to insure a non-dry startup. Remove your fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over about 15-20 seconds to run the new oil through the system and then reiinstall the fuse. Start the engine and listen closely. If you hear ANY noises, shut it down and inspect. Make sure there are no exhaust leaks as these can make all kinds of sounds that are not a failure but you sure will think there is something failing. Make sure that you have no liquid leaks and that you burp the cooling system completely to purge any air. I can send you the procedure to do this if you're not familiar with it. Run the engine for about an hour gently revving it up and down every now and then to make sure that everything is working as hoped. After an hour, drain the oil again (take a sample of the oil BEFORE the panty hose in the Blackstone Labs UOA kit) through another piece of panty hose and look very closely for any flakes or metal. If it looks clean, install a new Subaru blue filter or Mazda Roki black filter and fill with new Rotella T6 5W/30 or Amsoil Euro 5W20 but NEVER run Mobil 1 as it has proven itself time and time again to not be friendly to turbo journal bearings. Send in your sample to Blackstone Labs along with $20 and they'll send you back complete information in layman's terms as to exactly what is going on inside of your engine and what to expect. Drive the car gently for 200-300 miles to make sure everything is OK, checking the oil frequently and making sure no liquid or exhaust leaks and by then, you should have the UOA back and know if you're good to go. Good luck. It's a lot of work but worth it.

First post on this particular Subaru enthusiast community and it's definitely worth it to be on this thread. Absolutely outstanding work. With the 6 speed swap, why not go for an LGT conversion or even an STi swap? The engine bay looks like it has plenty of room in it to fit either of these and they could be a bit stronger. Just an observation on a fantastic job. I do custom turbo work so if you want something a bit different, give me a PM. You can check me out on www.legacygt.com under the same username and see some of the work I've done.