The clutch on my 93 legacy won't disengage. The cable was adjusted as tight as possible. When cable is unhooked from release lever you can move release lever a lot in all directions. I am wondering if release lever could have come loose inside of housing. Also there is a cable that was unhooked that I think goes into the clevis pin in release lever. Any info will be appreciated

The release lever may have cracked. It happens sometimes.

 

If so, it means removing either the engine or gearbox for access.

Edited February 2, 201511 yr by forester2002s

On my 91 Legacy the release pivoted  on  ball stud and finally cracked/wollowed out so wouldn't pivot any more-new lever fixed fine-be careful there are two little clps that I think hold the Throw out bearing to the release lever-can get lost VERY easily. I was able to separate engine and trans moving engine forward to get enough room to do

On my 91 Legacy the release pivoted  on  ball stud and finally cracked/wollowed out so wouldn't pivot any more-new lever fixed fine-be careful there are two little clps that I think hold the Throw out bearing to the release lever-can get lost VERY easily. I was able to separate engine and trans moving engine forward to get enough room to do

Thanks for your response. What did you need to remove from engine to move it forward. Is there another cable hooked to the release lever other than the one that goes to clutch pedal? 

The release lever may have cracked. It happens sometimes.

 

If so, it means removing either the engine or gearbox for access.

Thanks for your response.

The other cable is for the hill holder mechanism on the frame down below the brake master cylinder.

 

Pull on the cable and make sure the hill holder isn't locked up. If it moves freely hook it back up.

IIRC, disconnect exhaust at each head and drop Y pipe, motor mounts, maybe pull radiator and fans, and any hoses/wires that would be stretched would allow engine to move forward. I ONCE changed my clutch by pulling the trans, even being a FWD was a pain after that the engine was moved/pulled for any clutch work. Let us know what you find

The other cable is for the hill holder mechanism on the frame down below the brake master cylinder.

 

Pull on the cable and make sure the hill holder isn't locked up. If it moves freely hook it back up.

Thank you, I didn't realize they still had those in 1993. I had a 1984 with the hill holder mechanism, it worked great. Made it a lot easier for my wife & then several years later my daughter to learn to drive stick shift. 

IIRC, disconnect exhaust at each head and drop Y pipe, motor mounts, maybe pull radiator and fans, and any hoses/wires that would be stretched would allow engine to move forward. I ONCE changed my clutch by pulling the trans, even being a FWD was a pain after that the engine was moved/pulled for any clutch work. Let us know what you find

Thank you, sounds like that would be the best way. There is probably no easy way with everything being old & rusted.

Thank you, sounds like that would be the best way. There is probably no easy way with everything being old & rusted.

I think on these it's far easier to pull the tranny. I just did a clutch on my 95 that broke the fork as well. I put in a new fork and all the other clutch parts just to be safe, took about 4 hours total. The hardest part is setting the tranny down and lifting it back up as they are heavier then you would think they would be. I made a tranny jack out of an old floor jack I use for this by welding a plate with some angle iron on each side so the tranny is cradled and wont fall off. I have used this on autos and manuals both.

Edited February 6, 201511 yr by Fish-N-Fool