Roopilot Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 140K mi. I have put on all but 36K. Most torque bind posts say it occures when warm and goes away when cold. Mine goes away when warmed up. I commute 70 mi. to work. I start out in the morning with binding even moving straight. Once I get 3 - 4 miles it clears up. I tried the fuse. The light on the dash lights but the torque bind dosen't change. I read that if the light on the dash lights the duty C coil is ok. Is that correct. Can clutches stick? I changed 4 qt of trans fluid and added Sea Foam. If it was grooves as I have read somewhere It shouldn't go away warm. With the kind of miles I put on I'm willing to fix the problem but I'm not sure what to look for. Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 (edited) Have you checked your front CV Axles and the front differential? Could also be a wheel bearing. Edited May 18, 2015 by lstevens76 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) u-joint, carrier bearing also possible culprits. when you read of binding being worse when warm, those are usually the 5 spd transmissions. Cneter diff in them is a lot different than the wet clutch pack in the auto - and they have no FWD fuse. But, pretty sure a 94 has the 'bad' aluminum sleeve problem that cause the clutch plates to bind. and, I'm not certain how it might behave with temp. Could need a tail-shaft rebuild or, maybe someone knows if a newer style trans will swap in? Edited May 19, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roopilot Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 Axles were replaced due to occational clunking noise during turns. They didn't cure it by the way. The clunking noise is also worse when cold. I also replaced front wheel bearings. It is definitely a binding problem when cold. I have not done anything with the front differential. You think it's worth changing the differential oil? I remember when GM had an additive for posi rear ends that worked wonders. Is there a similar additive from Subaru? Is the duty C and clutch pack in differential fluid or in trans fluid? I suppose I'm putting of the inevitable. I don't want to spend the time pulling the engine / tranny assembly. I have to do it on the floor (no lift). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) You really need to pin-down where the problem is. maybe get a soob-experienced mechanic to test drive it? http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/27878-4eat-tail-section-rebuild-without-removing-transmission.html the solenoid and clutches are in trans fluid. The drive part can become grooved and the clutches can bind-up. Also, i have read that after about n97 1/2 , the valve was changed. maybe a tailshaft from a 98 or newer in the junkyard would fix your car? Edited May 19, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roopilot Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 I've been under and looked at the carrier. It seems ok just rotating and pushing it around. The bad aluminum sleeve might be a possibility and could also explain the clunking sound I sometimes have. It also is temp related. I replaced axles and wheel bearings trying to stop that with out luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roopilot Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 Thanks for the info. I guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet. At least I can schedule the repair since it still move just fine when warmed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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