Roopilot

Borrow, buy, or rent a fuel pressure gauge. The fuel rail should have a fitting to screw it onto. All that I have run into look like a tire valve (schrader fitting). Just screw it on and run the fuel pump. I don't know the exact spec. but should probably pump up to around 35psi. It should also hold that pressure when the pump is turned off.

Here's a thought. Since it runs better with the aux pump on, could be low fuel pressure. Check the fuel pressure regulator.

Thanks for the info. I guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet. At least I can schedule the repair since it still move just fine when warmed up.

I've been under and looked at the carrier. It seems ok just rotating and pushing it around. The bad aluminum sleeve might be a possibility and could also explain the clunking sound I sometimes have. It also is temp related. I replaced axles and wheel bearings trying to stop that with out luck.

Axles were replaced due to occational clunking noise during turns. They didn't cure it by the way. The clunking noise is also worse when cold. I also replaced front wheel bearings. It is definitely a binding problem when cold. I have not done anything with the front differential. You think it's worth changing the differential oil? I remember when GM had an additive for posi rear ends that worked wonders. Is there a similar additive from Subaru? Is the duty C and clutch pack in differential fluid or in trans fluid? I suppose I'm putting of the inevitable. I don't want to spend the time pulling the engine / tranny assembly. I have to do it on the floor (no lift).

Simple first. Drain and flush that old fuel all the way to the fuel rail. Look for water and dirt. By the way how are you controlling the injectors? I'm interested in aftermarket fuel controllers. I have a Jag V12 and their control system give me fits.

140K mi. I have put on all but 36K. Most torque bind posts say it occures when warm and goes away when cold. Mine goes away when warmed up. I commute 70 mi. to work. I start out in the morning with binding even moving straight. Once I get 3 - 4 miles it clears up. I tried the fuse. The light on the dash lights but the torque bind dosen't change. I read that if the light on the dash lights the duty C coil is ok. Is that correct. Can clutches stick? I changed 4 qt of trans fluid and added Sea Foam. If it was grooves as I have read somewhere It shouldn't go away warm. With the kind of miles I put on I'm willing to fix the problem but I'm not sure what to look for. Ideas?

I had the same with Yokahama's. I think any one can get bad ones. I'm trying a set of Coopers now.

Don't forget to rule out simple things like wheels, tires, wheel covers, belts. It's usually the simple things I overlook that fool me.

I think the only things moving when you pump the throttle is the throttle plates and throttle position sensor. I'm not sure what bearing the throttle position sensor could have on starting. I would check fuel pressure for a leaking injector. It could cause flooding when warm. I would expect roughness immediatly after starting but then run fine.

Plugs were replaces more than once. Im not sure what type are in it now. A shop replaced them again after a no starts and flood. I will look for the bulletin. Is voltage increased during starting?

1994 legacy SW, 2.2, 150,000 mi. I got on the board today because I've been having intermittent starting problems for 3 years. It was a couple time a year in the fall at +20. Worse now at below zero temps. Repair shops and dealers can't locate the problem because it starts once they have it in the shop. No codes. I'm pretty sure it is lack of spark. Plugs are wet after a no start. I hate throwing parts at it but I think i'm to that point. The cam sensor, coolant temp sensor, and coil pack have been replaced. The igniter was repalced with a junk yard unit. The crank sensor has not been replaced. Im looking for ideas. I don't trust it to get me home from work anymore.

Thanks, but why is it ok for 10 minutes. Ignition off / on resets it and up it goes again for another 10 minutes. Also I've had it remain up all day with the key off (setting not runnig).

I just bought a 27K milage Loyale SW with air suspension. The right rear drop after 10 minutes driving. Turn the car off and back on, it pump right back up for another ten minutes. The blinking light comes on when it falls. Does any one know what to look for?