Ok, so the flywheel is off, the head surfaces are nice and polished up, the separator plate is off and I'm finally ready to start putting it back together.................................

 

But, after multiple searches I get conflicting information and I'm unsure of which sealants go where (even the Subaru FSM I have doesn't say).

 

So, here is what I have:

 

Subaru 1217b (I know I ordered the wrong stuff)

 

When I realized that was wrong I went and bought:

 

Permatex Ultragrey 

 

Now I'm reading Ultra grey isn't Anaerobic and for the separator plate/oil pan I need Anaerobic?

 

So where should I use the Ultra Grey, should I even bother with the 1217b or return it?  And finally if I need another tube of sealer what should I go get?

 

Thanks

separator plates and oil pans are rather benign - use the ultra gray all day long.

 

 

it's not so much conflicting information - there is some sense in which it doesn't matter if applied properly.  so if it doesn't matter - everyone is right.

kind of like oil brand - no matter how obsessive someone is with their brand, it doesn't matter for NA Subarus.

 

ultra gray can squish out and coudl conceivably drop into the engine and lodge itself somewhere.  that won't happen if applied properly.  and the oil pan has a sump screen on it anyway so it shouldn't do any damage even if it did happen there.

Edited May 21, 201510 yr by grossgary

FWIW, we use only Ultra Gray 599 in our shop.  For over 20 years now.  It works. 

 

Don't glob it on, and don't make the layer TOO thin.  That's the only tricky part.  A consistent, even layer that has enough to "squish out" only slightly, but not so much that you have globs coming out of the seams.  

 

I realize this may be too technical a description.

I understand how to use it.  The description may have been not technical enough though. lol

 

I'll go with the permatex and start putting the engine back together.  Didn't want to have to do the RMS, but it looks like it will be getting done also.

The only part that really benefits from anaerobic sealant is the oil pump. The RTV squish can make little globs that break away and float upstream to the rocker feed ports and clog them. Anaerobic doesn't glob up, so it can't clog anything.

 

Everything else, ultra grey works great.

The question now is do I pull the oil pump and reseal it or leave it?  That's what I'm trying to decide.

Pull it. The backing plate screws tend to loosen and back out. Causes oil pressure loss. If any are loose you can either snug them up with an impact screwdriver or lok-tite them.

Would Fujibond 1217b work for that or do I need to go pick up some Anaerobic sealer?  

 

And this engine has been resealed before.  The oil pan was obviously Ultra-grey (not fuji bond) and it still had a little of the fuji under some of the ultra grey.

 

The oil pump has obviously been resealed before as well (You can see the grey on the sealant without pulling it).

definitely reseal the oil pump.  it's easy and you're there and they have known issues. ;

1. tighten the backing plate screws - i seriously don't think i've ever seen a pre 2005 EJ engine without loose screws. i only qualify that because i haven't worked on my 2005+ oil pumps, i assume over time i'll be the same.

2. new oring

3. reseal it

 

i use anaerobic often on oil pumps too, but i've used ultragray plenty of times as well.

When I ordered my gaskets for the head, I went ahead and got the Fel pro Oil pan gasket as well. Mistake?