Razorthirty Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) When i bought my 94 Touring wagon, i drove it home 200 miles with a screaming front differential and parked it till i could source a different front differential. I found a transmission out of a 92 legacy for $250, same 3.90 gear ratio. Let the project begin. But after much frustration.. Once i got it separated this happens!. Sheared motor mounts. game on Broken.. Broken.. Now for more fun, make 2 into 1 Center Diffs off, changing the pinion shafts Old bad shaft (Ouch) Nice new shaft (ouchless) Old bad diff. This is where the picture of the new diff should be, oops. Got carried away on that one. And ready to go back in as a unit. Much easier then separately. I think. Ands its back in the driveway.. Couple comments: Seem like an extra pair of hands is a must during the actual removal and installation on the motor and transmission. I have read of people saying both things about the process, to remove the motor and trans as a unit or not i mean, i find it easier to keep them as a whole. Not something i would consider undertaking again without a lift at the very least. Questions/Issues: Are turbo motor mounts different then a n/a motor? parts store says no but the right side motor mount did NOT want to go into its slot. Not at all. I got i eventually but it stretched the mount pretty good and i only barely got it threaded, see pic string. It now grinds constantly when on the throttle, from the front diff. its not loud, but noticeable, almost sounds like the diff is full of sand, its got nice clean new redline syn mt-90 in it.. random squealing, did not happen before, changes with rapid weight shift (read changing lanes with vigor). Im thinking brakes. slow to shift into drive and in between gears, anybody got a turbo auto tranny they wanna sell me? Exhaust leak, i couldn't get the hanger back on the trans no what i tried so i gave up and it leaks at the gasket under my butt when i drive. code 22, duh. still need to go get some wire to redo that, i can not for life of me find which pin at the ecu is the knock sensor? Right Right Left Left left Edited June 9, 2015 by Razorthirty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) Did you set backlash and preload on the new ring and pinion? It's not always as easy as just swapping parts. Kinda looks like somene else had trouble with the mounts before. NA and turbo mounts are different shaped, but I'm not sure if they bolt on any differently. Edited June 9, 2015 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razorthirty Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share Posted June 10, 2015 (edited) Did you set backlash and preload on the new ring and pinion? It's not always as easy as just swapping parts. Kinda looks like somene else had trouble with the mounts before. NA and turbo mounts are different shaped, but I'm not sure if they bolt on any differently. I did not set anything unfortunately, i did not even realize i had to at the time. Now that i do know i have to i still don't know how to nor do i want to rip that transmission out to do anything but replace it as it shift slowly as well as 4wd not working, just fwd. Mostly this one was just a learning experience. I figure i put myself in the beginning stages of what i just changed out but oh well. Edited June 10, 2015 by Razorthirty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Wait, what was the new front diff/trans out of? Something with a 3.9 ratio, I hope? And the Duty C solenoid (the AWD solenoid) is a common issue in the Phase 1 4EAT. The slow engagement is usually aided by 3 qts of synthetic fluid and a bottle of Trans-X High Mileage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 (edited) - Been there, done some of that: >>Motor mounts are not different. Either they weren't on correctly (no offense) or they're from a non-subaru, as they were interchangeable for many years and models (EJ = EJ). >> Get yourself over to Legacy Central -here's the ECU pinout. >> Turbo trans will be tough to find...hopefully someone is doing a swap. FWIW you can use a NON-turbo 4EAT from a '92-'94 as they also have the 3.90. Or a '90/'91 and '95-'98 from any 2.2 Subaru will work IF you change the rear diff to match the 4.11 FD ratio. ....and you could use the 4EAT from any '96-'98 EJ25 (Lsi, OB, GT, RS, Forester) if you swap to a 4.44 rear diff (The GT, LSi or RS would match your speedo the closest.) >>Disagree on the 'all-together' removal. Trans are a pain, but I've done 2-3 and just dropped the trans down and out....still a PITA, but patience helps. GL, TD Edited June 11, 2015 by wtdash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razorthirty Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 The 'new' trans was out of a 92 legacy, so same 3.9. I would believe that i put the mount on wrong, as that kind of things happens all the time, does anybody feel like going out to their Touring Wagon and maybe snapping a pic of the right motor mount? Im sure i will just replace it again down the road as i dont like how it went together anyway, i was just out of time and patience at that point. Thanks for the link. My only concern with using the non-Turbo transmission is that the turbo is definitely beefier in a few spots (transfer clutch and first gear clutches at least), and would hate to just tear up the new one. If i do go that route i will need to grab the matching TCU as well as making sure about the final drive correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 The 'new' trans was out of a 92 legacy, so same 3.9. I would believe that i put the mount on wrong, as that kind of things happens all the time, does anybody feel like going out to their Touring Wagon and maybe snapping a pic of the right motor mount? Im sure i will just replace it again down the road as i dont like how it went together anyway, i was just out of time and patience at that point. Thanks for the link. My only concern with using the non-Turbo transmission is that the turbo is definitely beefier in a few spots (transfer clutch and first gear clutches at least), and would hate to just tear up the new one. If i do go that route i will need to grab the matching TCU as well as making sure about the final drive correct? >>Google EJ22 engine mounts and you'll see how they look. (my work blocks most pics so no links.)<< #1 thing to do on any 4EAT is to get a Trans Cooler. #2 - Don't brake-launch - The non-turbo will work if you respect it and don't plan on upping the boost/fun factor. But seriously, I'd consider the EJ25-based 4EATs to be the way to go.... Stock hp/torque were closer to the Turbo's: 165/162 vs. 160/181. Also, if you came across an SVX trans - w/KNOWN history - and rear diff (3.55?), it is supposedly got the same beefier internals as the SS/TW 4EAT. TCU: This is debatable....as I've tried both in an AT swap (turbo trans into an NA car) I did and didn't really matter, but I've NOT done any thing outside of the '90-'94 models either. I'd get it and see which one shifts better. FD ratio: Yes, must match. OH...and a 'gotcha'. If you go w/the newer '95+ 4.11 or 4.44 rear diff, the Rear Pinion Flange (where the drive shaft/drive line connects) has a changed bolt pattern. That flange can be removed, but it's got a big nut and seems to be 'pressed on' so it's tough to remove. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 According to rockauto the mounts are different left/right. Did you get both mounts with the same part number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razorthirty Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 Well i am not planning on being intentionally abusive by way of brake launches but i do plan on using the throttle to its maximum potential. Including turning up the boost a bit and i plan on towing with it as well. A trans cooler will be added to the new unit whatever it may be. A 5 speed swap may also be in its future if i come across a parts car so i can take everything i need. Both mounts are the same part number, made by Anchor, i don't remember the number, just that they were the same. I even called O'Reillys to double check that the same part number was both sides and they said yes. Not that i really believed them i just had no other source of info at the time so i went for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 The 'cushions' (rubber part) - as Subaru calls them, are the same. The brackets they mount to are not. Mounts -see attached. Part numbers: Bracket complete-front, right 1 41031FA000 alternate: 41031FA080 Bracket complete-front left 1 41031FA010 alternate: 41031FA090 '93, October — '95, June '94, November — '96, June '95, December — '97, July '96, July — '98, May Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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