Just want confirmation this is a rod knock.  Every rod knock I've ever heard doesn't sound this bad, the piston usually comes out of the block before it sounds like this.

 

I could be wrong and it could be valves.

 

I  unplugged each plug while it was running one at a time and couldn't lessen the sound either.

 

All new timing components, etc.... as well so that's not it.

 

 

I was hoping it was timing components, but nope.  

Sounds higher pitched than a rod knock, unless it's the sound quality. Does it seem to come more from one side of the engine than the other?

That doesn't sound like any rod knock that i've ever heard. This has a different quality of sound to it. It almost sounds like what happens when a timing tensioner fails. But you said you just did that.. I'd be inclined to say its coming from the heads somewhere. 

Just want confirmation this is a rod knock.  Every rod knock I've ever heard doesn't sound this bad, the piston usually comes out of the block before it sounds like this.

 

LOL. Just re-read this. That would be something to see. Piston coming through the block - I see a massive explosion and aluminum flakes everywhere.

I've seen it on a Honda.    Piston right through the side of the block on an '82 Honda Accord.

 

And no, it doesn't sound like to me either.  

 

A little more history here helps.  It was at one point 2 quarts low on oil and it was 14k miles overdue for an oil change.  I'm really thinking head problems personally, but that's why I put the MMO + a full oil change in it to try and clear out any clogged up things.

 

When I changed the oil I found no shavings/metal in the oil either nor in the filter.

And I did put a stethoscope on it.  To me it sounds a lot more like it's coming from the passenger side head than the center or the drivers side.

 

And when I took this video there were no accessory belts on it either, which rules that out.

Edited July 3, 201510 yr by lstevens76

Sounds like rocker arms.

The old 2.2s sound that way when the lifters collapse. I think that one should have solid adjusters though. Pull the valve cover on the louder side and check lash clearance.

As long as the heat doesn't kill me today (another 102 day) I will pull both sides off and check lash adjustment.  Someone local has a set of EJ222 Heads (phase 2) if it comes to that, but if I can get it a lot quieter I'll probably drive it for awhile and build an engine to put in it.

Does anyone know what size the nut is on the valve adjustment?

 

I'm heading to buy a set of ratcheting wrenches and want the right size for that in the set ad well as the other size I need if possible.

If you get a set that runs from 8mm to 17mm you will be fine. I think the lock down nuts are 12mm.

They are 10mm actually.  And the front passenger side (the spot w/ the most noise) was off by over .15+mm (.02mm +_ is the only leverage the FSM gives) so..................

 

Corrected because I looked at my gauge and was putting the .35mm in and still had some slop w/ it (not much) and it was supposed to be .20 +- .02mm.

Edited July 3, 201510 yr by lstevens76

Yeah that would definitely make some noise.

Well either the heads have damage I can't see, or I'm wrong on where it is coming from.   I'm considering doing a compression test, but I'm waiting to hear from my cousin.  There's a '99 EJ22 in Reno and my cousin is moving from there for $300 asking price.  (Would offer less).

 

I'm waiting to hear if he has room.  If he does I'm going to pick that up, if he doesn't I'll go get a compression tester and see wtf is going on.  A rod/bearing should not affect compression but messed up valves will.

So it's still making noise?

Is it any different after the valve adjustment?

 

Valves don't really make noise unless they're just plain broken or the adjustment is far out of spec.

 

Do you have a long screwdriver you can use as a stethoscope?

I have a mechanics stethoscope and I couldn't here the noise in the block really, but majorly in the passenger side head.

 

Either way, I'm in Reno picking up an engine. I told fairtax and will post up other info tomorrow but in going to put this engine in.

 

Once it's in I'll through the one in it now on a stand and figure out wth is going on with it.

If all the clearances are OK, could be a damaged rocker arm or cam lobe.

could swap that head - EJ22 heads are super easy to replace insitu without pulling the engine.

 

i've had EJ blocks with the pistons rammed through the block and heads bashed to bits.

could swap that head - EJ22 heads are super easy to replace insitu without pulling the engine.

 

i've had EJ blocks with the pistons rammed through the block and heads bashed to bits.

We had one last week from a customer who's also a vendor.  They use the vehicle for deliveries.  I don't know how many rpms it got up to, but one wrist pin broke, all 4 rods were bent/broken, there's a 4" hole in the top of the block and something I've never seen before: a 1" hole in a cylinder sleeve!   I think that might be where the wrist pin broke.  We managed to "salvage" one head, valve covers and oil pan.  

Honestly, in over 20 years, I have never seen an engine this thoroughly demolished.  Un-freakin'-believable!

Sounds like the trans that came in my 2000 wagon. The gears were stripped, center diff was bad and the clutch disc was sheared 3/4 of the way through the center and nearly broke into 2 pieces. Takes a special kind of abuse to do that I think

Well picked up the engine and I hope to put it in tomorrow.  But after that journey I need a good nights sleep.  I was pilot car for my cousin and the person driving his moving truck.  We didn't go fast, made a lot more stops than I would have solo, etc...  Was a long trip back.

It was definitely a rod or main bearing........