Just got a 1990 Legacy wagon 4WD w/MT from a local fellow because I needed a second car for emergencies (like getting to work ...har har).  I don't know the history of the car. The odometer says 117XXX of which I find amazing.  The PO did attempt to put a new timing belt on it ...but it just wouldn't start. Stated he did a compression test but it was double zero on the passenger side. hmmm? He pulled the cylinder head on that side and could not find any bad valves, pistons, etc. and apparently lost interest...so now I have it. He did a leak down test with gasoline on that head and it appears fine. What do you think?

Non-interference engine. He just had it timed wrong.

 

Slap Some head gaskets on it and drive.

Did PO change the pullys and idlers along with a new TB?? If a bearing locks up in one of those, then the timing belt would lock up as well. Kits on ebay at a reasonable price, should you want to replace them.

I installed new HG's on labor day and a brand new timing belt that had been tossed in the backseat. The belt seemed awful tight even before I pulled the pin on the tensioner. I'm wondering if it was the correct TB for the engine?   It acts like it wants to start with wide open throttle but it just won't come alive. The timing mark at the crankshaft is dead on but both cam pulley marks are about one tooth past midnight and the spark plugs are gas fouled. All the idlers are good. I think I have an old TB laying around somewhere I can use for a visual comparison. Just haven't had the time to look for it yet. What do you think?

The timing mark at the crankshaft is dead on but both cam pulley marks are about one tooth past midnight

 

Timing belt needs installed properly.  Remove belt and properly line up the cam sprockets.

Don't allow any slack between cam and crank sprocket - if you don't that will retain perfect timing.

If you don't - it'll be off once tension is released or it's driven.

 

The belt is very tight and hard to install - remove the lower passengers side pulley - that one can be installed after the belt is installed and gives you a tiny bit more slack.

 

Make sure you're using the correct mark on the crank sprocket, some people use the wrong one.  use the dash, not the circle or triangle or whatever people soemtimes use.

I had an aftermarket belt that was too tight and it caused significant wear in the idlers and tensioner bearings in only a few minutes of running.

 

Get another belt.

 

Have you checked for spark? The cam and crank sensors are both plugged in?

Timing belt needs installed properly.  Remove belt and properly line up the cam sprockets.

Don't allow any slack between cam and crank sprocket - if you don't that will retain perfect timing.

If you don't - it'll be off once tension is released or it's driven.

 

The belt is very tight and hard to install - remove the lower passengers side pulley - that one can be installed after the belt is installed and gives you a tiny bit more slack.

 

Make sure you're using the correct mark on the crank sprocket, some people use the wrong one.  use the dash, not the circle or triangle or whatever people soemtimes use.

O.K. I'll do it right this time. It's been a couple years since I put one on.

I had an aftermarket belt that was too tight and it caused significant wear in the idlers and tensioner bearings in only a few minutes of running.

 

Get another belt.

 

Have you checked for spark? The cam and crank sensors are both plugged in?

Yes it has good spark and the sensors are plugged in. Also installed a new set of NGK's. I'll put a different belt on and get it right this time. Thanks.

Just put a different TB on and have everything lined up perfectly. Both cam pulley dash marks are twelve o'clock high and the crankshaft mark is right on the money. Still only wants to try and start when the throttle is wide open in the flood clear position. I don't get anything when my foot is off the gas pedal. I put another coil on but it made no difference. Spark plugs and wires are brand new. I see it has an igniter on the firewall above the dogbone? I'm guessing it may be bad?..... or something else? Sparkin plugs continue to get gas fouled. ughh. This wagon had been sitting for a year or longer, but for two hundred bucks I couldn't resist.

Edited September 21, 201510 yr by darsdoug

Could have a dead ECTS. The ECU may think its -40 and is flooding it with fuel.

Got off work early today and put another ECTS on but it's still doing the same thing. Fires right up after sitting overnight but doesn't keep running for more than a second or two. I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side for another look-see and they were both wet with fuel. Is there something that kills spark at initial start up?

Edited September 12, 201510 yr by darsdoug

Runs for a second, then dies, then it won't restart after that?

 

I would usually say that's a loose hose on the intake tube. But that usually makes it run lean.

 

Fuel pressure? Too low and it will just dribble fuel into the cylinders. Won't vaporize so it doesn't burn.

How old is the watery ethernol gas in it?

Have you tried plugging in the service connector and checking for codes on the dash?

Runs for a second, then dies, then it won't restart after that?

 

I would usually say that's a loose hose on the intake tube. But that usually makes it run lean.

 

Fuel pressure? Too low and it will just dribble fuel into the cylinders. Won't vaporize so it doesn't burn.

How old is the watery ethernol gas in it?

I have a good fuel pump assembly I can swap in but it's from a 96 Legacy wagon. Not sure if that will interchange? The age of the fuel in the tank is unknown. Gauge on instrument cluster said quarter of a tank plus the 2 gallons of fresh gas I added yesterday. Gas cap was missing when I bought the car. Certainly hope someone didn't put water in the tank?

Have you tried plugging in the service connector and checking for codes on the dash?

I'll be doing that tomorrow. I just need to re-learn the OBDI morse code stuff.

Edited September 12, 201510 yr by darsdoug

http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Subaru%20OBD1%20Decoder.htm

 

There you go.

o.k.  I'm getting a "22", (two long- two short), a "23"(two long-three short) and a "49" (four long-nine short).

22 is a knock sensor open/short, 23 is an airflow sensor open/short. Are they plugged in? Is the air boot hooked up with no leaks between the filter housing and the throttle body? I think 49 was airflow sensor incorrect values.

I have a good fuel pump assembly I can swap in but it's from a 96 Legacy wagon. Not sure if that will interchange? The age of the fuel in the tank is unknown. Gauge on instrument cluster said quarter of a tank plus the 2 gallons of fresh gas I added yesterday. Gas cap was missing when I bought the car. Certainly hope someone didn't put water in the tank?

 

Ethanol readily absorbs water from the atmosphere, and once it has absorbed all it can the water/alcohol separate from the gasoline and fall to the bottom of the tank. If the cap was gone water will get in the tank anyway.

 

Pull the supply line off the fuel filter and stick it in a clear bottle. Turn the key On a few times to pump some gas into the bottle and check it for water.

Ethanol readily absorbs water from the atmosphere, and once it has absorbed all it can the water/alcohol separate from the gasoline and fall to the bottom of the tank. If the cap was gone water will get in the tank anyway.

 

Pull the supply line off the fuel filter and stick it in a clear bottle. Turn the key On a few times to pump some gas into the bottle and check it for water.

Yes I did that today. Fuel looks clear. I put a few drops on my driveway and put a match to it. Ignite's fast from what I see.

I replaced the fuel pump with a known good one and also the knock sensor with one I had from an Impreza, but still no change. Spark plugs continue to get gas fouled. I know they have spark because I can see it when I lay one on the block and crank the engine over. "Orange spark". Nothing spectacular.

http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

 

Find anothe MAF to test with. That's probably the problem. Or unplug it and the computer should go into limp mode.

Edited September 12, 201510 yr by lstevens76

http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

 

Find anothe MAF to test with. That's probably the problem. Or unplug it and the computer should go into limp mode.

Alright. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks. I tried to post a pic but I guess I'm over the limit? I'm starting to think it's a crank or cam sensor? Just a wild guess.

Edited September 13, 201510 yr by darsdoug

If it actually fires the crank or cam sensor should be throwing a code if they are the problem.  The computer is reporting a variety of problems and you need to start there.  If you know all those items are 100% working correctly, then clear the codes (disconnect battery for a bit) try again and then pull them again until you get "NO" codes.

 

Once the codes are cleared then trying looking for stuff not reported if the problem is not fixed.  

Edited September 13, 201510 yr by lstevens76

Another day of troubleshooting and I'm starting to lean more toward the injectors being stuck open.

Another day of troubleshooting and I'm starting to lean more toward the injectors being stuck open.

I'm kinda thinking an injector issue as well. Possibly the o-rings on the injectors are leaking. Does it look like the injectors or fuel rails have been pulled out of the manifold?

 

It's not easy to check the injectors on these. You can prime the system then clamp off the fuel return and supply lines and check for the fuel pressure to drop.

If you can pick up a set cheap it may be worth it to just swap them out.