darsdoug Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Just got a 1990 Legacy wagon 4WD w/MT from a local fellow because I needed a second car for emergencies (like getting to work ...har har). I don't know the history of the car. The odometer says 117XXX of which I find amazing. The PO did attempt to put a new timing belt on it ...but it just wouldn't start. Stated he did a compression test but it was double zero on the passenger side. hmmm? He pulled the cylinder head on that side and could not find any bad valves, pistons, etc. and apparently lost interest...so now I have it. He did a leak down test with gasoline on that head and it appears fine. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Non-interference engine. He just had it timed wrong. Slap Some head gaskets on it and drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Did PO change the pullys and idlers along with a new TB?? If a bearing locks up in one of those, then the timing belt would lock up as well. Kits on ebay at a reasonable price, should you want to replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 I installed new HG's on labor day and a brand new timing belt that had been tossed in the backseat. The belt seemed awful tight even before I pulled the pin on the tensioner. I'm wondering if it was the correct TB for the engine? It acts like it wants to start with wide open throttle but it just won't come alive. The timing mark at the crankshaft is dead on but both cam pulley marks are about one tooth past midnight and the spark plugs are gas fouled. All the idlers are good. I think I have an old TB laying around somewhere I can use for a visual comparison. Just haven't had the time to look for it yet. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 The timing mark at the crankshaft is dead on but both cam pulley marks are about one tooth past midnight Timing belt needs installed properly. Remove belt and properly line up the cam sprockets. Don't allow any slack between cam and crank sprocket - if you don't that will retain perfect timing. If you don't - it'll be off once tension is released or it's driven. The belt is very tight and hard to install - remove the lower passengers side pulley - that one can be installed after the belt is installed and gives you a tiny bit more slack. Make sure you're using the correct mark on the crank sprocket, some people use the wrong one. use the dash, not the circle or triangle or whatever people soemtimes use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 I had an aftermarket belt that was too tight and it caused significant wear in the idlers and tensioner bearings in only a few minutes of running. Get another belt. Have you checked for spark? The cam and crank sensors are both plugged in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 Timing belt needs installed properly. Remove belt and properly line up the cam sprockets. Don't allow any slack between cam and crank sprocket - if you don't that will retain perfect timing. If you don't - it'll be off once tension is released or it's driven. The belt is very tight and hard to install - remove the lower passengers side pulley - that one can be installed after the belt is installed and gives you a tiny bit more slack. Make sure you're using the correct mark on the crank sprocket, some people use the wrong one. use the dash, not the circle or triangle or whatever people soemtimes use. O.K. I'll do it right this time. It's been a couple years since I put one on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 I had an aftermarket belt that was too tight and it caused significant wear in the idlers and tensioner bearings in only a few minutes of running. Get another belt. Have you checked for spark? The cam and crank sensors are both plugged in? Yes it has good spark and the sensors are plugged in. Also installed a new set of NGK's. I'll put a different belt on and get it right this time. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 (edited) Just put a different TB on and have everything lined up perfectly. Both cam pulley dash marks are twelve o'clock high and the crankshaft mark is right on the money. Still only wants to try and start when the throttle is wide open in the flood clear position. I don't get anything when my foot is off the gas pedal. I put another coil on but it made no difference. Spark plugs and wires are brand new. I see it has an igniter on the firewall above the dogbone? I'm guessing it may be bad?..... or something else? Sparkin plugs continue to get gas fouled. ughh. This wagon had been sitting for a year or longer, but for two hundred bucks I couldn't resist. Edited September 21, 2015 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Could have a dead ECTS. The ECU may think its -40 and is flooding it with fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) Got off work early today and put another ECTS on but it's still doing the same thing. Fires right up after sitting overnight but doesn't keep running for more than a second or two. I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side for another look-see and they were both wet with fuel. Is there something that kills spark at initial start up? Edited September 12, 2015 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Runs for a second, then dies, then it won't restart after that? I would usually say that's a loose hose on the intake tube. But that usually makes it run lean. Fuel pressure? Too low and it will just dribble fuel into the cylinders. Won't vaporize so it doesn't burn. How old is the watery ethernol gas in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Have you tried plugging in the service connector and checking for codes on the dash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Runs for a second, then dies, then it won't restart after that? I would usually say that's a loose hose on the intake tube. But that usually makes it run lean. Fuel pressure? Too low and it will just dribble fuel into the cylinders. Won't vaporize so it doesn't burn. How old is the watery ethernol gas in it? I have a good fuel pump assembly I can swap in but it's from a 96 Legacy wagon. Not sure if that will interchange? The age of the fuel in the tank is unknown. Gauge on instrument cluster said quarter of a tank plus the 2 gallons of fresh gas I added yesterday. Gas cap was missing when I bought the car. Certainly hope someone didn't put water in the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) Have you tried plugging in the service connector and checking for codes on the dash? I'll be doing that tomorrow. I just need to re-learn the OBDI morse code stuff. Edited September 12, 2015 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/Subaru%20OBD1%20Decoder.htm There you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 o.k. I'm getting a "22", (two long- two short), a "23"(two long-three short) and a "49" (four long-nine short). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj7291993 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 22 is a knock sensor open/short, 23 is an airflow sensor open/short. Are they plugged in? Is the air boot hooked up with no leaks between the filter housing and the throttle body? I think 49 was airflow sensor incorrect values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I have a good fuel pump assembly I can swap in but it's from a 96 Legacy wagon. Not sure if that will interchange? The age of the fuel in the tank is unknown. Gauge on instrument cluster said quarter of a tank plus the 2 gallons of fresh gas I added yesterday. Gas cap was missing when I bought the car. Certainly hope someone didn't put water in the tank? Ethanol readily absorbs water from the atmosphere, and once it has absorbed all it can the water/alcohol separate from the gasoline and fall to the bottom of the tank. If the cap was gone water will get in the tank anyway. Pull the supply line off the fuel filter and stick it in a clear bottle. Turn the key On a few times to pump some gas into the bottle and check it for water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Ethanol readily absorbs water from the atmosphere, and once it has absorbed all it can the water/alcohol separate from the gasoline and fall to the bottom of the tank. If the cap was gone water will get in the tank anyway. Pull the supply line off the fuel filter and stick it in a clear bottle. Turn the key On a few times to pump some gas into the bottle and check it for water. Yes I did that today. Fuel looks clear. I put a few drops on my driveway and put a match to it. Ignite's fast from what I see. I replaced the fuel pump with a known good one and also the knock sensor with one I had from an Impreza, but still no change. Spark plugs continue to get gas fouled. I know they have spark because I can see it when I lay one on the block and crank the engine over. "Orange spark". Nothing spectacular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ Find anothe MAF to test with. That's probably the problem. Or unplug it and the computer should go into limp mode. Edited September 12, 2015 by lstevens76 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ Find anothe MAF to test with. That's probably the problem. Or unplug it and the computer should go into limp mode. Alright. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks. I tried to post a pic but I guess I'm over the limit? I'm starting to think it's a crank or cam sensor? Just a wild guess. Edited September 13, 2015 by darsdoug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) If it actually fires the crank or cam sensor should be throwing a code if they are the problem. The computer is reporting a variety of problems and you need to start there. If you know all those items are 100% working correctly, then clear the codes (disconnect battery for a bit) try again and then pull them again until you get "NO" codes. Once the codes are cleared then trying looking for stuff not reported if the problem is not fixed. Edited September 13, 2015 by lstevens76 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Another day of troubleshooting and I'm starting to lean more toward the injectors being stuck open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Another day of troubleshooting and I'm starting to lean more toward the injectors being stuck open. I'm kinda thinking an injector issue as well. Possibly the o-rings on the injectors are leaking. Does it look like the injectors or fuel rails have been pulled out of the manifold? It's not easy to check the injectors on these. You can prime the system then clamp off the fuel return and supply lines and check for the fuel pressure to drop. If you can pick up a set cheap it may be worth it to just swap them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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