So I'm trying to get my JDM turbo touring wagon running.

The fuel pump isn't working (but works when powered directly from the battery)

 

using the check connectors, I'm getting error code 22, which I'm told is the knock sensor.

 

The positive side of the fuel pump wiring works ok. The relay turns on for a few seconds with the ignition at "ON" & then stays on when cranking the engine.

 

If I bypass the earth side of the fuel pump directly to the body, the car runs (kind of).

 

I've got 5 gold coloured ECUs here.

the JDM one that came in the car. A USDM version that came form a turbo, an ADM NA version that I pulled from a wreck myself, and 2 from a mate which he says are from turbo XT's.

 

The JDM & USDM have an extra circuit board. Neither of these ECUs will make the car run. Both of these flash code 3 with the green check connectors joined indicating turbo automatic.

 

My ADM NA & the 2 from a mate don't have the extra circuit board. These all flash code 7 indicating NA. All of these make the engine run & I drove the up the street and up my steep front yard with my ADM ECU last night.

 

The questions I have are:

 

1. is the extra circuit board for turbo models only?

2. what does this extra circuit board do?

3. is there anything else tied into the knock control circuit? I find it curious that a fault there would stop the car from running

4. can I disconnect the knock sensor without any bad effects?

5. how the heck do you undo the plug for the knock sensor? It's position down underneath the back of the throttle body make it difficult to get to (especially with the turbo)

6. does this ECU need to run boost control?

7. Can I run the car on an NA ECU?

Send a PM to member nncoolg. He's local to you and knows a bunch about this engine.

local? That's like saying Cincinatti is local to New York

 

Unfortunately, info on the series 2 turbo (ie gold ECU) is limited to the XT here. The only other turbos we got were the RX turbo sedan & GLTA sedan up to 87 (ie series 1)

sounds strange, is the engine original with the proper loom and distributor?

Edited November 11, 201510 yr by nncoolg

agreed.

 

As far as I can tell, everything is as it should be.

The distributor cap is new, but you'd think that if the distributor was the problem, then it wouldn't run with an NA ECU either.

I'm just wondering if the dizzy matches the turbo ECU's, there was a rumour that there are two different optical dizzys, but that could be one of those forum myths like 'flipping the rear top shock mount on the XT'

...Perhaps it could be a CAS sync issue.

 

Are you the person I sent some wiring diagrams to a while ago? to what extent did you play with the wiring?

 

So I'm clear, when you turn the key, the fuel pump primes? with all the ECU's? Then only runs again with the NA ECU's when cranking?

 

What happens if you hotwire the fuel pump and give it a full 12v, then crank?

Parts catalog lists 3 different optical dizzys, it may pay to look at the part number on your one...

 

Oh, and have an open knock sensor circuit wont prevent the engine from running, it will just throw a CEL

 

Actually, is your CEL on? or are you reading the code from memory?

optical dizzys.pdf

Edited November 12, 201510 yr by nncoolg

pump doesn't prime with the turbo ECU's.

 

Check engine light isn't on, but I think that will only show up when the engine is running. I'm reading the codes off the ECU LED.

 

I haven't pulled the dizzy cap off, but it appears only the cap has been changed, not the rest. My dizzy is more like the right side pic. I know the cap has 2 screws to hold it on. Has 4 pin plug hanging off it.

 

Dunno if you sent me some diagrams or not. If so, it was so long ago that neither of us can remember

BTW, if you're at the Gold Coast, I'll be in Brissie for Christmas. I can bring a hard drive if I could get some new copies. The only wiring diagrams I seem to have are for NA spider XT + XT6.