Last week I was pulling out of the gas station making a hard right and heard three loud pops (maybe like 4wd binding) but in 2wd. The car is a 90 loyale 4wd m/t. There is a stop sign right after I pull out so I coast up to it, go to take off and just a whirring/grinding sound when letting out the clutch but no movement from the car... put it in reverse, nothing. Tried to put it in 4wd and it wouldn't engage. That part has me more concerned then the rest tho. My mechanic said he thinks I stripped a hub. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet (hoping to later today) to see if axle stub just spins in wheel but any thoughts? And should 4wd still engage unless I ruined the transmission?? It wasn't acting up whatsoever.

If the clutch still feels like it did before the pops, and still starts and stops the other noise now, it probably is working. Was it in a place that you could let it roll even a little while trying to get it into 4wd?

Yes I ended up having to coast it back to the gas station parking lot. It usually engages as soon as I push the button tho, I'm pretty certain that I wouldn't of been able to get it on either. I really didn't want to give up and leave it stranded. I wanted 4wd to engage so I could at least get off the road. I need this car to last a few more months until I can save a down payment on a new subaru lol

Edited November 29, 201510 yr by firstsubi

Ok. Some have a lever, some a switch. I was thinking lever. I know the 3AT transmissions best.

I'm sort of hoping it's a wheel hub simply because then I'll know what's wrong as soon as I get to look at the car and won't have to dig around. I don't know of any junk yards anywhere near me with old subaru, if anyone has one or two to sell please let me know!, $200+ online is more then I can spend right now. The reason I'm thinking wheel hub without looking at it yet is a few weeks ago I was driving down the road and my wheel almost fell off!!! It's redrilled for 6 lug but when I pulled over it was barely held on by 2! Those two were a turn or two from coming off. I'm guessing the mile or so I drove with the wheel a little loose may have rounded out the teeth in the hub? But wouldn't it still engage into 4wd with a bad hub?

Stripped hub won't stop 4wd from working. Not sure the loose wheel would cause the hub to strip... unless it was loose also. But the 4wd should have moved the car. Bigger than stock od tires will put higher stress on the driveline, if you are inclined to apply power.

Stripped hub won't stop 4wd from working. Not sure the loose wheel would cause the hub to strip... unless it was loose also. But the 4wd should have moved the car. Bigger than stock od tires will put higher stress on the driveline, if you are inclined to apply power.

I thought I would still move after I tried 4wd too but it wasn't there.

Have someone sit in the car with the brakes on (don't wanna get run over), put it in 1st gear in fwd and let out the clutch. If the engine doesn't stall, something is broken... Look under the hood and watch to see if an axle is spinning, it's that easy. You can do it without a helper, but running yourself over is bad mojo...

So if I let the clutch out and it doesn't stall somethings broken.., pop hood, if the axels are spinning (while still in gear not going anywhere) it's a bad hub? And if they aren't it's internal to the transmission? Is that correct?

Edited November 29, 201510 yr by firstsubi

You only have to have one side screwed up in fwd, for it to not go anywhere.  If both half axles are not spinning when the car is in gear and not going anywhere, then the problem is inside the transmission.  If either half axle is spinning, but the car is not moving in any gear, then the problem is between the spinning half axle and the wheel.  Engaging the 4wd may be a separate issue, if you had problems getting it engaged before this happened.  If both issues occurred at exactly the same time, then your transmission if f***** up.   Just a bad clutch would not affect your ability to get it into 4wd.  Just an external front drive axle problem would also not affect your ability to get it into 4wd.

Edited November 29, 201510 yr by scoobiedubie

Correct, if one axle is spinning without the car moving, hub is stripped on that side. It's an open differential so just one side needs to spin for the car not to move.

 

If you have it in gear, clutch engaged (foot off the pedal) and no axles are spinning... Your clutch or something in the trans died. Start taking things apart...

So if I let the clutch out and it doesn't stall somethings broken.., pop hood, if the axels are spinning (while still in gear not going anywhere) it's a bad hub? And if they aren't it's internal to the transmission? Is that correct?

Got over to look at it this afternoon and the driver side spindle just spins. So I've got a bad hub. Is that a sign that something else is wrong, or most likely just bad cone washer and nut or not torqued right?

Thanks for the advise and does anyone have a wheel hub for a loyale they would be willing to sell?

Edited November 30, 201510 yr by firstsubi

If the axle spins, without turning the hub, the splines are stripped.  New hub.  Possibly need new axle also.  I have not had this happen, so I don't know for certain.

Got over to look at it this afternoon and the driver side spindle just spins. So I've got a bad hub. Is that a sign that something else is wrong, or most likely just bad cone washer and nut or not torqued right?

 That's awesome! A hub is much easier to replace than a clutch. Check the axle out really carefully for wear. You don't want to strip out your new hub because the axle splines are worn. If in doubt, replace the axle as well.

When replacing the hub are new bearings required?

Nope, the hub doesn't go through the bearings, it sits against the inner race. Unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor, unbolt the axle nut, and it just comes off. If you rip the parking brake good and tight the rotor won't even move and get in your way. The flat washer actually isn't flat, it's conical. Make sure the convex side goes toward the taper washer. Make sure the mating surface between the taper washer and the hub, and the taper to axle IS CLEAN AND DRY. You want NO OIL between those surfaces, it's a mechanical shaft lock.

Edited December 5, 201510 yr by 987687

Thank you!