steve56 Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Im looking for an image of the piston position mark arrows on the cam pulleys for ej22 and ej25. I need to understand the direction the arrows are pointing at tdc of compression stroke for each cylinder. I'm working on a better cylinder leak down test procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 There's just one arrow on each cam pulley, they point straight up when cylinder 1 is at TDC of the compression stroke. There are no marks for the rest of the cylinders at TDC of their compression stroke. However, once you have #1 at TDC of compression, every 90 degrees of crank rotation the next cylinder in the firing order will be at TDC. Here's the cam mark. Note, the hash mark is for installing the timing belt and denotes all the pistons being in the middle of their stroke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve56 Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 Great, that is exactly what I was looking for. I'd also like to find a good quality pdf/cd factory service manual for the variuos Subarus Ive been working on. I bought a few bad ones on ebay and I dont really like the AllData manuals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) I've had good luck by just googling for PDF downloads of the FSM. I have a few I've found that way, sorry I don't have any links for them. Also check in the ultimate subaru repair manual (you'll see it called the USRM) section of this forum, there are some great links to factory repair resources in there. Edited December 21, 2015 by 987687 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 FSMs are out there in internet land, though sometimes they're not complete or well organized/labeled. As above, searching google for " 19xx/20xx Subaru Factory service manual" generally yields good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwbrens Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 When finished with #1 cylinder turn crankshaft 180* and L.S camshaft arrow will be@ 3 o clock.another 180 * and 6 o clock and another 180* and 9 o clock . It will follow the firing order.good luck and no more then 10% difference between cylinders.If you have trouble finding the leak and if you take off oil cap and put a tussue paper over the opening. If the paper starts to dance the air leakage is entering the crankcase by the Pistons and or piston rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) Yea, you're right. It's every 180 degrees, not ever 90 degrees! Oops, I've been working on V8s too much At least I didn't say 144*, because I've been messing with those strange beasts lately, too... Edited December 21, 2015 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwbrens Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Thanks Rally ,27 years Subaru master tech.Ralph new to this forum stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Didn't catch that before. 180° crank rotation 90° cam rotation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Found this in my image collection: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve56 Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 That image nails it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White95Legacy Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 (edited) I worked on an EJ22 recently, but this was 2 weeks ago I'm trying to remember from. Here's what I did wrong, luckily I didn't damage the valves, but could someone tell me why the manual says Intake valve opens 1 degree BTDC when in fact it does not, and exhaust closes 12 ATDC when it does not. Here's why I think it's wrong, or I'm wrong or idk. We had the engine out of the car for clutch and head gaskets, we just finished the head gaskets and it was time for the timing belt to be installed, intake and exhaust manifolds were not installed yet so I could see the valves, spark plugs were removed too so I could see the pistons. The service manual said intake valve opens 1 degree BTDC, so I brought a piston to TDC and I set the camshaft so the intake valve was just barely open, the manual said exhaust close 12 degrees ATDC and the exhaust valve was open a little more then the intake, seemed perfect. So I put the timing belt on, then I rotated the crank and checked each cylinder one by one to make sure I had it right. So I brought the cylinders to TDC between the exhaust and intake strokes then I rotated the crank 1 degree backward and the intake valve closed, then I brought it back to TDC, then I went 12 degrees forward and the exhaust valve just finished closing. Seemed perfect and by the book. The little marks on the cam pulleys lined up with the marks on the covers, but the dash on the crank position sensor wheel didn't line up with the mark where the crank sensor was. Before I tried to install the belt I checked to see if it was an interference engine by opening the valves all the way and gently bringing a piston to TDC by bare hand and there was no feel of collision, but that doesn't mean the lash adjusters were at their running height when filled with oil, and at high rpm some valve lash or piston lash wont bend the valves, so idk if this is an interference engine or not. So I thought I was right, we put the engine in the car and we tested it before we put the radiator back in, and the car had trouble starting, the valves sounded like their timings were off. So we took off the belt and lined up the small dashes on the cam pulleys with the marks on the covers, and lined the crank sensor wheel mark up with the mark by the sensor. Car started fine and it drives fine. But the valves open and close at way different times then it says in the book. I had to release the timing belt tension and rotate the crank a few degrees to line up it's mark, it wasn't off by much, crank was off by 3 belt notches if I remember correctly, Crank pulley had 24 teeth, cams had 48, not enough mis-timing to damage the valves and it didn't seem like an interference engine. We didn't mess with the lash adjusters but with spring tension sitting on them when the engine is not running they bottom out I think. Can someone explain why it says intake opening 1 degree BTDC, exhaust closing 12 ATDC, and when I put the belt on the correct way they open and close way different? Edited December 22, 2015 by White95Legacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 A 95 isn't an interference engine, so you can't crash pistons on valves no matter what you do. It has hydraulic lash adjusters, so if they weren't pumped the valves would open later than expected until oil pressure built up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 A 95 isn't an interference engine, so you can't crash pistons on valves no matter what you do. It has hydraulic lash adjusters, so if they weren't pumped the valves would open later than expected until oil pressure built up. Ah right on, also I think I remember seeing in the manual not to rotate the cams any more than necessary during the timing belt job so that the lash adjusters don't lose their prime. The description sounds like they were rotated many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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