1987 subaru gl spfi

 

Time to get the old subie back out on the road, I quit driving it because it had issues with stalling. It would drive fine on the freeway but once I got to a drive through window or a redlight and went to take off it would lose power and die.

 

I have tried a lot of thing with no success. I have replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter, and wires and rotor and dist cap have all been replaced recently. I also replaced cts, tpms, cleaned throttle body and replaced air filter.

 

I am getting a bonus check so its time to put some parts on this think and enjoy great gas mileage again. I am wanting to do a full tune up with ngk plugs and wires. Replace the cap, rotor and coil. Replace the oil pump seals and possibly check the timing.  Also replace the injector. I think the injector may have some issues with leaking or something of the nature causing it to flood when driving slower.

 

I have found one one rock auto but want to see if it will actually fit becuase rock auto seems to not know what parts fir these old subies half the time. 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=928730&cc=1268478&jnid=661&jpid=3

 

I cannot see the connector on it, but i can solder the old one to it if need be.

 

Before replacing stuff that was already replaced... check the idle air valve and it's wiring.

How about vacuum leaks!

" have found one one rock auto but want to see if it will actually fit becuase rock auto seems to not know what parts fir these old subies half the time. 

http://www.rockauto....jnid=661&jpid=3

 

I cannot see the connector on it, but i can solder the old one to it if need be."

 

If I ordered this it would cost me $33.00 shipped. Plus I pay discounted shipping back of my injector.

 

The listing is for 1987 to 1994 gl dl gl 10 Loyal. What kind of shape is your 29 YO injector in?

Negative on the vaccum leaks, have checked over and again for them and idle is fine. Although high on start up, once warm it is fine.

 

I have checked the IAC in the past and It has checked out fine and has been cleaned by me with throttle body removed. All wiring seems to be fine, but for peace of mind I will make this one of the first things I check via the fsm.

I had one where the engine would idle down to zero sometimes.  The wire to the IAC valve had fractured, inside the insulation.  Narrowed it down to the harness on the engine with an ohm meter.  Didn't find the break until I unwrapped the harness.

 

Can't say that this is definitely your problem, but it shows how sneaky these things can be.

I understand what yall are saying about the IAC. The issue happens when coming off the line at redlights and such. When I am already out of idle range and into the 3000 rpm range. TPMS is new and adjusted per fsm with dmm.

 

What role does the IAC play outside of idle? I have had minimal idle issues, at one time I had hot start issues but it went away after changing spark plugs.  

I may have missed something. I thought it was dieing at idle.