nillvurt Posted May 24, 2017 Author Share Posted May 24, 2017 Hi guys! Got it all back together, started up on first go after I ran the starter with the ignition coil disconnected for a bit to move some oil around....noisy valves that quieted down after a bit of driving. Thanks for all the help, couldn't have done it without you! Now I still have an oil leak that is coming out of the oil pump. Same as before that caused the oil to spray all over the inside of the hood. My theory is that the oil pump shaft is grooved since I did all the oil pump seals and the shaft seal, but forgot to inspect the shaft. It seems to be coming off with speed and rotation since it sprays a fine mist off a pulley, and I think it is the oil pump pulley. But I run open timing belt covers and changing that will be super fast now that I have done something as involved as the head gaskets! I think it was also running back along the oil pan and making it look like the oil pan gasket was leaking. Now I have GDs RTV coated cork gasket in there and I have a hard time seeing that leak… On the good side, no exhaust in coolant anymore, exhaust smell in cab is fixed after replacing front exhaust assembly and catalytic converter. New axle assembly after a broken boot and it giving out after 275K. New struts and rubber mounts, replaced stabilizer bar rubber at the ends that had disintegrated. New wheel bearings and seals and all new seals everywhere in the engine. Now the only thing I have to figure out is why a new rotor on passenger side has about 0.5-1mm runout when strapping it down to the hub. My theory is that the hub is somehow bent, and I'm inclined to pick another one up at the pick'n'pull… Anyway, I can't quite believe that it all went together! Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickoli Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 Sometimes the Micky mouse seal on the oil pump doesn't sit right. When I changed mine it leaked, and that was the issue when I took it apart. I read on here to use a tiny tiny spot or two of permatex to hold the gasket in place when you install. Hope it's that. Easy fix. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 (edited) It could also be leaking from the front crank seal... I developed an oil leak in the front, ironically a couple days after doing the oil pan gasket... it ran down the side of the oil pump and it looked like that could be the cause but it did infact turn out to actually be the crank seal that managed to blow out sideways... Plus if you haven't already done so, I would suggest replacing the PCV Positive Crankcase Valve to reduce internal pressure in the block even if it rattles it could be bad... And congratulations... you have successfully completed the full on Japanese style of Yoga if ya did it with the block installed Edited May 29, 2017 by Len Dawg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nillvurt Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 It could also be leaking from the front crank seal... I developed an oil leak in the front, ironically a couple days after doing the oil pan gasket... it ran down the side of the oil pump and it looked like that could be the cause but it did infact turn out to actually be the crank seal that managed to blow out sideways... Plus if you haven't already done so, I would suggest replacing the PCV Positive Crankcase Valve to reduce internal pressure in the block even if it rattles it could be bad... And congratulations... you have successfully completed the full on Japanese style of Yoga if ya did it with the block installed Nah, pulled the whole engine out, it seems like it would be a nightmare doing it with the engine in… Turns out it was the front seal. Somehow it was seated crooked, even though I am sure it was straight after I replaced it. I put a new one in, it went in straight, but right at the end when it went deeper it seemed to get crooked again (which seems impossible with how tight fit it is) Now I'm waiting on a new seal from the parts store and thinking I just won't seat it as deep, probably just past flush with the front of the engine block seal housing. Anyone know if it is supposed to be driven in all the way? I read that somewhere, but there also seems to be openings for oil to flow down at the bottom, which would be blocked if I drove it in all the way… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 I think it is supposed to be flush on the outer surface, not pressed all the way in. I'm not where I can double check right now. I know the camshaft seal are not pressed in past flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nillvurt Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 Dang, I've always pressed the camshaft seals in all the way into the housing, but I seem to remember them not really going deeper than flush. Haven't had a problem with them... I'll try to put the crankshaft seal flush and no deeper, it seems more right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nillvurt Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 All good! No leak! I just set it flush with the front, and I'm pretty sure I didn't press the camshaft seals in all the way either now that I think about it… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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