The firing is "before top dead center".  For instance, my turbo gl10 is something like 24 degrees before top dead center.  The rotor should be pointing towards the back of the battery, when the triple notch alignment is used.

24 before? My engine dies when i go over 20.

And my rotor points at the hillholder.

Tried to adjust the timing yesterday but it just wont work.

Now it runs best at 10 after tdc.

20 before and it will almost dies.

And when setting timing i got two codes appering 33 and 51.

 

I have changed the tps but still cant set the timing.

 

Next step is to swap the entire dissy.

 

Btw when hooking of the o2 (lambda) sensor nothing happens.

No change in engine rpm or check engine light.

The O2 sensor does not do anything until the ECU sees that the CTS temperature reads that the engine is up to normal operating temperature.

 

33 = speed sensor

51 = Neutral switch

I see i have had theese codes before.

 

The thing that annoy me is that when connecting the two green connectors the CEL light shall turn on but it dosn't.

to get the timing belts just right I usually clock them 1 tooth back from having the mark just right to install the belt, then I hand clock them to take the slack out of the side opposite of the the tensioner.  once you let the tensioner go both sides should be decently tight and the mark will be strait on target.  I just mention it cause the belts can be off just a little bit and its not obvious cause the tension side is tight.  doesnt hurt to double check them, its a pretty quick process.

 

again just in case, how did you verified tdc before installing the disty?  it runs off the standard degree marks instead of the belt marks, and it can be 180 depending on the position of the cams.  Id reinstal the belts and distributor.  tdc should be pointing back towords the number one spark plug wire, which I beiieve is the way you have it towords the hill holder, but the number one piston may be 180 degrees out.

 

maybe double check firing order?

I installed the dissy by watching Miles Fox on youtube.

But will check it again today.

Will also test another dissy and replace the ignition cables because i got a electric shock from one of them when turning the dissy.

Does the CEL come on while the car is off / when cranking?

Yes it come on and goes off when starting the engine.

Iirc, there is a whole procedure to follow after connecting the greens that has to be followed before the CEL turn on.

Have now checket the timing belts again and they where all okey.

But still the engine runs best at 0 to 10 btdc.

So now i have set the timing by fealing when the markings is of for some reason.

What was your proceedure putting in the dist?

I set the piston 1 at tdc and the flywheel is then at 0.

Then i put in the dissy so it points at the spring at the hillholder.

Right between the two screws holding the dissy.

And it points at cylinder one sparkplug cable.

Now having this idling problem appearing.

Sometimes when start the engine and drive it for a while the rpm goes to 500 something and the engine sputters.

Restart the engine and it's normal again.

Probably some sensor going bad ,i dont know what else could be wrong. And there is no cel codes appearing.

That sounds like a sticky idle speed control.

 

OOPS-forgot your MPFI and do not have one.

I would check fuel pressure and watch the O2 sensor voltage for clues.

Edited June 29, 20178 yr by naru

 

Tried to adjust the timing yesterday but it just wont work.

Now it runs best at 10 after tdc.

20 before and it will almost dies.

And when setting timing i got two codes appering 33 and 51.

 

I have changed the tps but still cant set the timing.

 

Next step is to swap the entire dissy.

 

Btw when hooking of the o2 (lambda) sensor nothing happens.

No change in engine rpm or check engine light.

Does the idle switch close on the new TPS?

If not,you could jumper the harness for the purpose of setting base timing.

The CTS can cause all sorts of idle and drivability issues without causing a code.

That sounds like a sticky idle speed control.

 

OOPS-forgot your MPFI and do not have one.

I would check fuel pressure and watch the O2 sensor voltage for clues.

 

MPFI has idle control.

 

Either on top of the thermostat housing (flat manifold)

 

Or a cylindrical type under the intake (spdier)

 

ussually they fail to a high idle, since when warmed up they supposed to close anyhow.   Or they cause too low an idle when cold but once warm it should run the same as if it was totally plugged.

 

MPFI has idle control.

 

Either on top of the thermostat housing (flat manifold)

 

Or a cylindrical type under the intake (spdier)

 

ussually they fail to a high idle, since when warmed up they supposed to close anyhow.   Or they cause too low an idle when cold but once warm it should run the same as if it was totally plugged.

Those are not idle control valves.

They are auxilary air valves.They have no feedback idle control ability,but merely respond to temperature and time.

A failed one will not result in a sudden low idle that cures itself w/a restart.

Edited June 30, 20178 yr by naru

 Those are not idle control valves.

They are auxilary air valves.They have no feedback idle control ability,but merely respond to temperature and time.

A failed one will not result in a sudden low idle that cures itself w/a restart.

 

They are for providing Auxillary air yes,  for the control of idle speed during warmup.  So my statement that they have "Idle control" is correct.  I did not say it was feedback system.

 

And As I said.  They would either result in a high idle warmed up (failed open)  Or it would be low idle during warmup (not opening)

 

So thank you for agreeing with me that it is likely not the OPs issue.

They do not CONTROL idle speed.

Affect yes,control no.

Edited June 30, 20178 yr by naru

Are you sure of tdc, did you verify it was a compression stroke?

Are you sure of tdc, did you verify it was a compression stroke?

Not 100% sure. I must put a stick or something in the plughole to verified that.

Today i drove the car and noticed another thing.

When driving up a hill with the cooling fan selection on 4 the fan goes up in rpm when the engine goes up in rpm.???

And it also change by itself from blowing in the face to blow at the windshield.

The windshield button is not pressed in.

 

My brother belive there is some grounding problem.

 

 

Btw code 33 = speed sensor and 51 = Neutral switch is this something important or can i drive along and live happy and ignore this codes?

Fan speed shouldn't change with rpm. The voltage regulator may be bad.

 

The air vent controls are done by vacuum actuators. If they change under heavy throttle, the is a leak somewhere.

Not 100% sure. I must put a stick or something in the plughole to verified that.

 

you cant verify it with a stick, plug your finger in the hole and feel for the pressure poping your finger out of the hole.  remember when you installed the timing belts?  you moved the motor 1 full turn to install the second belt but the cam only moved a half turn.  that means that you have to get the piston at top dead on the stroke that matches the cam cause it comes up while the other side is firing.  pull the spark plug and verify that its on compression stroke for number 1 and see where the rotor is at.