Hello folks.

 

I have a 1998 legacy mkII with a ej20e engine in it, I live in Norway, europe and been trying to ordering parts from the states, but apperently the 2.0 engine isnt aviable on the US marked it seems like.

 

Im looking for timing belt kit, camshaft oil seals, oil pump seals, valve covergaskets, crankshaft seal, alternator belt, ac belt.

 

So my question is, can i order this for a 1997 impreza with the ej18? or for a legacy 1998 ej22 or is all the parts diffrent from engine to engine?

 

Im not familar with whats really diffrent between the ej18-22 but seems some of the parts i looked at is for a dohc, mine is a sohc, N/A.

 

Help is greatly appriciated.

 

Thanks in advance, Tom

All of the parts you're looking for will be the same for the ej22e.

Thanks for your answer.

 

Im looking at rockauto, they dont list what engine is in the cars other than 2.2 h4 for example, do you happen to know what year i get the sohc version on the 2.2?

 

Also is it any changes in these parts from f.eks 1997-1999, or am i safe ordering for either of these years?

 

Thanks again.

90-98 for the ej22e. 99-01 ej22 is a completely different engine.

 

The timing belt tensioner changed here in 97 to a new style, which is most likely what you have on yours as well. I would recommend pulling the timing cover to see which type you have before ordering. If you have the new style one integrated tensioner the timing kit would be 97/98, if you have the old style bar and separate roller type tensioner the kit would be 90-96.

I just pulled the timing cover, i will go outside and take a picture of it just to make sure i will order the right part.

 

Another question, what is the interval on changing timing belt, and waterpump? is the rollers and tensioners and everything ment to be changed with every belt change? mine has low milage, or kilometer rather, 112000km or 70 000miles if i converted correct.

 

The rollers and everything seems in very good condition by visual inspection, but i havent taken the belt off yet so i dont know for sure until then.

 

Thanks again for your help.

Here is a picture of the tensioner, i hope you can tell me wich type/year that is.

Absolutely always change the idlers. They are the more common fail point in the timing system. I've seen more bent valves because of idler failure than actual belt failure. Even though they may look good while installed I'd bet the bearings are noisy when spun uninstalled.

 

The water pump is recommended to be changed as well.

 

Subaru changed the recommended interval in the 90s, some were on a 60k mile schedule and then they upped it to 105k miles. For my own vehicles I try to do the job around 80k just for piece of mind.

The tensioner roller is changeable right? or do i have to buy the entire tensioner? the tensioner itself seems to be pretty expensive so i rather not change that unless thats also recommended.

 

Also hydroulic tensioner is new to me, is there anything special i need to do to take out the tension and re-tension it? will it be a pain in the butt to get the timing belt on correct again if thats slack?

I don't know of anyone who sells the roller for the new style tensioner. It's worthwhile to get the whole timing belt kit, with the tensioner and everything included. The newer style tensioner can be damaged very easily when compressing the piston back in.

Alright, thank you, i will look for the entire kit then.

 

So ordering for a 98 legacy will give me the correct parts including the tensioner?

 

Another question, I just set the engine on what appears to be the timing marks, but the cam wheel mark, or whatever to call it on the right side, is a notch or so off the factory mark. However they marked a new spot a tooth or so beside it with a blue marker. Very strange, could there be a reason for this? or should i no matter what go by the factory marks?

 

Is there any good info online on how to set the timing 100% correct?

 

Thanks again, Tom

Alway go by the factory marks, it's not uncommon for the belt to be slightly off at the end of its lifespan. But it could have also been installed slightly off at the last change.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/4th-gen-sohc-2-5-timing-belt-replacement-pic-intense-188814.html

 

Here is a pretty good write up for the timing belt on a phase 2 sohc,. While the engine is different, the procedure and alignment marks are still the same.

Take photos!

If the engine is currently running well, then make marks on the old belt and on the timing notches (use a wax pencil, or child's crayola stick - yellow works well).

Then take photos of that setup BEFORE removing the old belt.

So when installing the new belt, you can refer to the old photo to check tooth-count etc.

Only takes a minute.

To check for part numbers use http://opposedforces.com/parts

The plastic covers distort and shift over time.

 

All notches should be excactly vertical.  As long as they are, doesn't matter if they don't line up with the cover notches.

 

Plus the new belt will have marks on it as well.  Install to match those.  **NOTE** once you rotate the marks on belt will not line up again for 200+ rotations.  Just match for install.

Thanks for all ur help.

 

I have taken photos and marked off the best i can now so hopefully it should be fine.

 

A couple of more questions.

 

I ordered a cam crank seal kit with comes with install grease, do i need anything other than the grease to install them and get them sealed, will i have any use for permatex or simular anywhere on the front of the engine? also do you guys have any good tips on how to get the old cam and crankseals  off/out?

 

To change the crankseal, do i need to take off the oil pump? im planning to change the oil pump seal anyhow, but do i need a new gasket for the oilpump itself?

 

Another question is, when i drove this car, it had a lil ignition timing "knocking" sounds under acceleration, i assume its must likely just to adjust the timing, or can it be something like knock sensors or stuff? if its just to adjust the timing, does anyone know how to calculate what ur timing should be on 95 octan gas?

 

Last question (at least for now) is the legacy identical ej20-ej22 when it comes to brake parts, shocks/struts, cv joints and so forth?

 

Thanks again for all ur great help, Tom