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1987 Brat - Phase Three Work

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Phase One was clutch, cooling system and some gaskets. Phase Two was conversion of AC to R134A and for a couple of weeks now, it has worked well. Phase Three was undertaken yesterday and we (better half and me) accomplished the following:

  1. Installed the 234028 struts on our Brat (what is the torque specification on the piston rod bolt?)
  2. Turned the rotors and drums. Will resuse the front brake pads (almost like new), but will replace the rear brake shoes (between 1/16" to 1/8") left on the lining). Will also rebuild wheel cylinders. It is amazing, brake shops cannot turn the front rotors without taking the rotor off the hub. Since I had had a bad experience on my 1981 two door GL HB years ago, I told the guys not to remount the rotor on the hub and that I would do it. So this morning, I will progressively torque the rotors to the hubs to 42 ft-lbs. If you are not careful, you can warp the freshly turned rotors, and this will induce wheel shimmy during driving and braking. My rotors had to have been be warped quite a bit as the turning took quite a bit off the thickness. Next time I am sure, I will have to replace them.
  3. Trivial, but replaced two body clips that were missing on each side on the splash trim in the two front wheel wells. If anyone wants the Balkamp (NAPA) part numbers for the ones I used, I can get them (I do not have it handy now, it is in the garage - was for a GM application however).
  4. Replaced the right side tie rod end dust boot (had a brand new boot from my HB days). The round clip was a pain to install, but worked out in the end.

I have two new TRW ball joints and will inspect the joints for play this morning and decide whether to replace. Next is to troubleshoot grounding and charging system problems. The voltmeter reads below 12 volts and this is driving me nuts. Waiting for stock front leading rod and stabilizer bushings. Thereafter, some miscellaneous work to make it look nice (waiting on front flaps to show up and a paint job etc.).


So the Brat is almost there mechanically. I have used it as my daily driver for @1000 miles since doing the clutch job without concerns.





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Use a digital volt-meter at the battery and check the *real* voltage. Those gauges are totally inaccurate. Mine jumps from 12 to 15 randomly, but the digital meter reads within .5 volts all the time - depending on what's turned on. Your voltage should be around 14 - 14.5 or so.



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