I keep blowing the 25 amp fuse that runs the door locks. They work for a day or two and then quit. I fixed the driver door switch that sends the lock/unlock signals to the other doors and that works fine. I suspect the problem might be in the wires that span the gap between the driver door and the body, since those flex all the time. One of them may have shorted to ground. Any other ideas out there?  That fuse also runs something else. Can't remember what, though. I can make a current measurement.

cnc

Probably the wires grounding out somewhere.  If you can access them cover them with some split corrugated tubing to keep then out of contact with the body/frame.

Is it blowing when you're using the door locks? If so, you could have a bad actuator. Unplug them one at a time for a few days each to see which one. If not, what Dee said. Most likely in the door, or the pass thru as you mentioned.

should be a 20 amp not a 25

 

and according to FSM door lock is only thing on that circuit

Thanks for the tips, guys. All seems to work perfectly until at some point, none of them work. I don't know when it's going bad. I do have a clamp-on DC ammeter, so I could conceivably test each one individually, to see where the big current draw is. Even simpler but not conclusive would be to just substitute an ammeter where the fuse goes and read it as I hit the lock switch. If I find that the total current is anywhere near the 20 or 25 amp fuse rating, then it's just a matter of time before it cooks off the fuse, anyway.

 

I'll report back. Stay tuned.

cnc

Question: Are all of the door lock actuators the same? In looking at some info, it appears that they all use little DC motors to run a leadscrew or similar. They will burn out if left engaged for any period of time. The most likely scenario is that one or more just finally bit the dust.

cnc

IIRC both front and rear pass side are the same

 

Drivers side rear door is a mirror image of the others

 

Front drivers is different.  Not an actuator, it is actually the switch that activates the other 3

I would not use an inline ammeter unless you have one capable of measuring 25 amps. Unless specifically rated for high amperage, most meters on the market are rated at 10 amps. Use your clamp on at each actuator like you said above and if one of them is drawing significantly higher then the others, then you've most likely found your culprit.