November 26, 20178 yr I'm guessing the reason that many have issues is because of the extra emission stuff added to satisfy US emissions .- hoses etc failing from heat / age. The hitachi carb is a good carb but has been ruined by the addition of all this stuff and is destined to fail. Had had 3 of them, 2 EA81s (still have Brat ) and EA82 and no major issues apart from messing up a rebuild when rekitted one on an EA82 Had to buy another 2nd hand replacement one. One learns from mistakes made. Also they don't like being messed with. (and had one EA82 with auto choke - horrible) Also they have been been ruined by the addition of automatic chokes. These are horrible and need to be ripped off and thrown away as far as possible. Reason not good for cold starting as they over choke and fast idle not high enough and as soon as blip the throttle - loose fast idle. Manual choke far superior especially for cold winter starts - can adjust / bend linkages for a better / higher fast idle. Set all mine to 2000rpm on full choke. Have seen imported second hand imported US carburettored engines here (Chev V8s) and we shake ours heads in disbelief. This emissions stuff here gets ripped off and thrown away. Edited November 27, 20178 yr by subnz
November 26, 20178 yr They will never run right without the valving that varies the airflow to the primary and secondary air bleeds based on engine temp, etc. The have a vacuum secondary, and tiny venturies that choke low end torque. They were designed for emissions and fuel economy. The Weber 32/36 is designed for performance and will negatively impact emissions and fuel economy generally. Pick which one you want. They both do completely different jobs. No room in my life for the Hitachi carbs. They perform a job that I don't want performed. I scrap as many of them as I possibly can so they can be turned in soda cans - which I rather enjoy more. GD Edited November 26, 20178 yr by GeneralDisorder
November 27, 20178 yr Author Sure agree - not as economical and more emissions without extra emissions plumbing and but more simple and less to go wrong with heat / age and less hp lost. If I was in the US I would probably do the same thing - throw away the hitachi and bolt on a weber but not necessary here as they run fine in this simple form. Has "summer / winter" manual lever operated air intake flap control. If carb icing - a reminder switch air intake flap to "winter" (warm air drawn off exhaust manifold via flexible hose) My 1987 NZDM Ea81 Brumby (Brat) has breaker points distributor (tried to post pictures from 2 sources but this site doesn't seem to like me doing that) I'm guessing the reason why the NZ authorities here didn't require the full emissions treatment and electronic breakerless distributors is that it was a truck / pickup so requirements were probably less stringent. But Gen 3 GL carbed cars here had breakerless electronic dstributors at this time. We didn't see fuel injection until after 89 in some GL models although Turbos then were fuel injected. This was the original setup for earlier models here as well. 1988 on .- most all new cars here in NZ from that the time were fuel injected and electronic managed ignitions. Edited November 27, 20178 yr by subnz
November 27, 20178 yr I can do a full Weber kit with all parts for installation for like $275. They may "run fine" in your opinion but if you haven't tried a Weber then you are missing half your low end torque. GD
November 28, 20178 yr Author Its a case of familiarity . If you don't have it you don't miss it. Now I'm keen to try an upgrade- don't like the fact I'm missing out on low end. Edited November 28, 20178 yr by subnz
November 28, 20178 yr Do the Weber carbs pass emissions anywhere, meaning I'm not in Cali so the emission we do have are lax compared to theirs but I don't want to swap and then not pass.
November 28, 20178 yr You have to lean them out or they pass easily, most of the people that run smog check around here are not rocket scientists. Thanks
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