Edit: My step-son had no further problems on his trip (other than getting stuck in a snow drift!)  and is just driving it as is.

 

 My step-son's '00 OB has 260K + miles. Replacement  engine (EJ251 w/new HG) has ~ 170K.

 

He was driving over Snoqualmie Pass last night, road clear, temps in the 30's and the AT Temp light came on steady. He pulled off the road and called me.

 

Other than  a somewhat steep section of maybe 2 miles (?) near the summit this pass is pretty tame compared to others. You can cruise @ the 65mph speed limit up and over w/out issue (unless it's snowing, which closes it multiple times during winter).

 

- Checked the ATF and it's full. I just changed it out last fall so less than 10K miles.

- NO Flashing AT Temp light - Key Off>On (engine off).

 - No driving issues - no hard shifts, 'flaring'/RPM surges, nothing weird.

 - Drove it into Seattle w/out further issue.

 - My step-son is pretty observant and treats the OB very well...he wants it to make 300K!

 

Anyone seen this as a precursor to something failing? I'm thinking maybe the AT pump is getting old or the coolant lines to the radiator are plugged/plugging?

 

Thanks

Edited March 29, 20188 yr by wtdash

I would check to see if that’s an ATF temperature issue? I’m not sure what overtemp ATF would cause but I think there is a sensor and it must do something to trigger an notice.

 

Normally codes make it flash, the light shouldn’t just stay on, so that probably means something specific.

I had a couple of 99 obws, both of them had flakey solder joints on back side of the instrument panel. I had the AT temp light on when the odo didn't work, and after the re-flow it only came on before the car started .I don't know if it's a problem with the 2000s. Re-flowing (and maybe adding a bit more) the solder is easier than getting the panel  out, so if you do it, do all of the solder joints. 

 

Pat

Also, it's easy (but can be messy) to test for clogged radiator. There are couple of rubber section of the trans cooler lines, disconnect both (car off and not hot) and blow (low pressure) air through the radiator side of one them, if not clogged you should see trans fluid coming out the other one. You will get trans fluid drooling out of the lines so it's good to have some caps for the steel portion, or golf tees for the rubber lines, or lots of oil dry. I'd mark them before I disconnected them. I remember them being easy to reconnect either way.

Edited March 22, 20188 yr by lizardbrain

 

Normally codes make it flash, the light shouldn’t just stay on, so that probably means something specific.

 

AT temp light on (not flashing) means the trans is over temp or at least the sensor thinks so.

 

If it's doing it on startup or when you otherwise know it's not too hot, then my guess is the temp sensor failed or is shorted to ground.

 

IIRC, it's wire is a shielded wire, so if something nicked it and the shielding is touching the inside wire, you will have this light on.