Has anyone done this? I know people have with regular automatics doing the welded dif trick. I can't post in the transmission talk stuff because I'm too new

you don't have to weld the differential, you just have to force it into "locked" 4WD...maybe you're referring to the rear output as a differential?

 

anyway I'm not sure how that works on the CVT, but it's still clutch plate and electronically controlled so presumably you'd just disrupt that circuit like it's always been.  

That would work in a Subaru but this is gonna go in a 300zx from 1995.

Why are you putting a subaru transmission in a 300z? just buy a transmission that's already RWD...

 

The issue that always comes up with subaru RWD conversions is the transmissions (autos or manuals) aren't designed to transfer all their power out the back all the time, especially the autos. Those are primarily FWD only transferring power back when it's needed, they tend not to do well.

I'm trying to get over 35mpg and have good emissions. I wanted a new Miata engine but there aren't any ECUs I can run for it

The engine is an FE20 with an AWD CVT Legacy from Japan. I'll get rid of the transmission if I need to but I'm hoping I can keep the thing

Get a BRZ transmission. They're getting fairly plentiful on ebay now for reasonable prices.

 

Are you sure your engine will fit between the frame rails?

Are you sure your engine will fit between the frame rails?

Yea, this. Subaru engines are really wide compared to most other engines, even the v6 that could be optioned in those cars. The v6 isn't wide down low like a subaru engine is.

There are other engines that are efficient, you may look at honda engines from the 90's, they're extremely easy to tune on the stock obd1 ECUs and will actually fit in the car.

Efficient, RWD Honda engines don't exist. I know people getting 40mpg in BRAs. I'm aware its wide. About an inch too wide. I have hammers and welders at the ready.

Also, efficient and clean burning aren't the same thing. Standards were low in the 90s. If that weren't true, I'd go SR20 which is easy to do. There are people getting 35mpg in them while having trouble passing emissions.

That would work in a Subaru but this is gonna go in a 300zx from 1995.

that doesn’t matter.

It’s the same thing - if you’re controlling it the force the clutches together. If you’re not controlling it then splice the solenoid for that circuit. Either way - same general principle.

 

Pre-2002 default for a Subaru transmission without control was “locked”. After that it’s “unlocked”. So if it’s still the same the solenoid would just need 12 volts to lock the rear output.

 

If you’re not having any controls won’t you loose shifting and torque converter lock up ? Those seem ideal for what your goals are.

 

But you say you have a welder so you’re probably just looking at pulling the rear extension housing and getting busy in there with that!

Edited April 6, 20188 yr by idosubaru