My first centre diff....I just left it alone. My second, well it did not look or feel the same as above

 

Its housing when washed out with.kero and degreaser revealed enough fine as grey matter to coat palm side of four fingers

 

Now, there is also a very fine light grey greasy gunk building up in a few cracks and crevices. Looks almost as if an additive like Pro.ma MBL concentrate.

 

Its colour also looks to a perfect match to non machined sections I can see of

the centre differential case when cleaned up. It makes me think this component may be made of a sacrificial metal and I have nought to be concerned.

 

I bought this box unable to test drive it, all based on

Power failure....

 

Based on sellers word the box had no noise, no crunches

 

The diff lock lever was just left to entertain itself - nothing to activate it or restrain it from accidentally engaging, fully or partially

 

I guess I just want to get it back together with new front seals and 23 splines yo get it in and test drive it in a Brumby.

 

Anyone know torque for centre difg Allen head bolts?

If you're concerned with the centre diff check it for backlash. It shouldn't be much but really I don't know the exact specs. I've got one that came in my original box that has a quarter inch play in the input shaft. Not good. I've been told this is the worst anyone has seen before they grenade. I'm yet to work out how to reduce this - I'm not in any rush as it's not needed atm.

 

If I'm on the computer I'll upload some pics detailing this.

 

As for the locking lever being left to float, there's a descent stopper built into it do it's unlikely it'd engage randomly.

 

With the rear case removed you should've been able to check the dog clutch for damage - it's a pretty chunky dog clutch so I doubt there will be any...

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

No damage to dog clutch. I found my first centre diff specs spot on, and having pulled this one apart can see I have a *selectable shim washer of 1.6mm and the FSM has a list of part numbers and thicknesses, so if needed and available, this is the right time to be chasing them.

 

I gotta say the engine stand is the best thing to do these boxes

 

I need to investigate my own cable in out for the diff lock, or knock a hole in the trans tunnel down by my clutch foot

Edited April 19, 20187 yr by jono

You could use an EJ dual range cable setup for the diff lock...

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

No damage to dog clutch. I found my first centre diff specs spot on, and having pulled this one apart can see I have a *selectable shim washer of 1.6mm and the FSM has a list of part numbers and thicknesses, so if needed and available, this is the right time to be chasing them.

 

I gotta say the engine stand is the best thing to do these boxes

 

I need to investigate my own cable in out for the diff lock, or knock a hole in the trans tunnel down by my clutch foot

 

No damage to dog clutch. I found my first centre diff specs spot on, and having pulled this one apart can see I have a *selectable shim washer of 1.6mm and the FSM has a list of part numbers and thicknesses, so if needed and available, this is the right time to be chasing them.

 

I gotta say the engine stand is the best thing to do these boxes

 

I need to investigate my own cable in out for the diff lock, or knock a hole in the trans tunnel down by my clutch foot

  

A single range pushbutton vacuum diaphram/cable setup is EXACTLY the same as the diff lock actuator.

only ever seen the selectors in books - never in real life...but, one is rumoured to be in a pile of crap at a blokes yard. Typical odd, unusal character that wreckers and hoarder/wreckers can be. Everything is a million bucks, but reasonably priced when it comes to exchange. He may have thrown it to spite those not willing to pay his price ask. Must go have a sniff.....

I'd love a 4wd button gear knob. For now I've got the rocker switch mounted on the console to lock the centre diff.

 

And as Goyle said, the vacuum diaphragm setup on the single range PT4wd L's is the same unit as the AWD ones. Grab the solenoids and vacuum lines too

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

ah ha so it is single range part time 4WD L Series that had that!

 

Never seen anything but dual range. Might be time to pay the funny guy a visit

Series 1 single range PT4wd L's is where you'll find this push button gear selector in Oz. But it'll probably be the wrong colour that you're after.

 

What I was actually dropping in here for was to share those centre diff slop pics:

 

 

 

I'm not even sure it's got that spacer ring in there. If it did it'd probably need a 4mm one!

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

Holy schmoly ! Did you fit that centre diff!

 

The specs are 0.4 to 0.6 mm freeplay in the 87 FSM

 

I think I measured my first with feeler gauges. The second most recently with a dial gauge and got 0.93 , but want to do two posts on the dial gauge support instead of one to ensure I am not getting any flex from the post.

 

I found a diff bloke who says he can make up either a new shim to suit or one to add as a packer for existing one that is about 1.6mm already.

 

The maximum shim available was 2.05mm , none are available from Subaru anymore

 

Thanks for the such detailed pics Bennie

 

I only took the bevel gear and washer in to show the diff guy. Said it looked like new, but says need to see more to ask why we have the sacrificial stuff about.

Edited April 25, 20187 yr by jono

Nah mate, this diff is shelved until I have an appropriately sized shim made up. Even then I'm not sure how well it'll go as I reckon the spider/planetary gears have also chewed out the housing as they've rotated too much - as off someone's run the wrong rear diff ratio or been doing line lockers (diff not discoloured from heat so think this can be ruled out).

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

for the record, those eight of socket head bolts that hold the centre diff together 18.1 =/- 1.4 ft/lbs torque - found it in the description section rather than diagrams - these manuals tend to hide some gems like this.

 

Got my 20 thou (0.5mm shim washer to stuff in , in addition to original

 

just gotta get new tube of threebond.

 

Was thinking new input seal for good measure but think needs dissembly of bits I would rather not ....not as easy as the std awd/fwd casings now this thing is dual range hybrid. Glad I found 37 teeth on crown wheel

Do the input shaft seal while the box is open. It's worth the effort!

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

Emphasis on the word effort ? I think they were all done when this box was assembled 40 k km ago in Andrew Penny's workshop...still grease inside front stub seals. It is clean as a whistle inside. It now has 23 spines to suit my Brumby