Ravenwoods Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 I’m curious about possible buying something like this available on Craigslist: ”burned clutch, engine runs fine, but does not drive1992 Subaru loyale manual 232k miles 4wd with 2wd switch on the shifterVery well maintained, Service history availableHas studded tires onComes with a set of summer tires and 2 sparesReconstructed title(rear end damage)” He is asking $699 and it has been on Craigslist for a long time. I’m assuming pulling this engine would be straight forward. But I’ve never pulled an engine before or done a clutch. Any advice on if there is any thing I should beware of? I may get him to come down on the price since it has been advertised so long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 do you want a cool project, or a commuter. The Loyale was the last EA series Subaru and production ended in 1994 worldwide. The EA engine is as reliable as an EJ22 BUT, it has been out of production for 25 years. Would make a nifty spare vehicle but there are many NLA parts making it not the best choice if your just looking for a cheap commuter.. An EJ based Legacy would be a much better car as a commuter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenwoods Posted April 10, 2019 Author Share Posted April 10, 2019 I'm looking for a commuter car that needs some work done on it that I can do myself. What is the EA series and the EA engine? What are NLA part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 41 minutes ago, matt167 said: The EA engine is as reliable as an EJ22 Not in the Loyale. The EA82 has a myriad of problems with it. The EA81 found in the brat is the reliable as the EJ22 unit. @Ravenwoods - NLA = no longer available The EA engines above are 1.8L. EA81 is pushrod, can under crank, bullet proof if you keep the oil and coolant where it should be. The EA82 is OHC with small cam belts and always have oil leaks and the tick of death from hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) that don’t pressure up properly. If it’s running studded tyres I’d bet that it’s got serious rust issues if it’s seen salt on the roads. Lastly, this would be posted in the EA/80’s subforum, even though it’s a 90’s year build. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Dude! I think I am running the last Loyale in the Northeast!... Had five all sticks... I have done everything to these pups! two of them I ran over 300k... (got smarter as time went on).. currently running last one... and I have a parts car. running one almost 308k parts car 304k. in the rust belt ... but, with rust prevention products was able to stave of rust... somewhat.. I usually would get them for a hundred bucks... or so.. they would have some kind of problem... then fix them.. (use hundred dollar rule)... dump cash into car $xxxxxxx divide by one hundred.... that is how many months car needs to last till if breaks again.. I had one of these... that at 158k i dumped 4k into... (she rests with 304k on her) she went 100k.. with just basic maint.... tires and oil... 232k... Is high and 699 is high.. what does car need? regards, Micky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 I read again.. you are saying clutch.. best way to do clutch is pull the motor... and then. definetly put in new motor mounts BUT CAN THEY BE PURCHASED? these where a dealer part last I remembered.. also.... pulling motor means unbolting exhaust from heads... this can be unpleasant!. bolts are all burt up... rusted. SO CHECK THEM..., they are on the head... might as well do some new gaskets while you are there ie: rear seal.... and then dependiing how deep into motor u want to go... re spooge/ sealant cam boxes valve covers.. front of motor.. water pump timing belt... and seals in tgat region... throw cam covers and center pully cover front halves in garbage. install only backs of covers... you will thank me later..... yeah... that car is either a freebie..... dont pay more than hundred bucks for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenwoods Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 11 minutes ago, mickytrus said: Dude! I think I am running the last Loyale in the Northeast!... Had five all sticks... I have done everything to these pups! two of them I ran over 300k... (got smarter as time went on).. currently running last one... and I have a parts car. running one almost 308k parts car 304k. in the rust belt ... but, with rust prevention products was able to stave of rust... somewhat.. I usually would get them for a hundred bucks... or so.. they would have some kind of problem... then fix them.. (use hundred dollar rule)... dump cash into car $xxxxxxx divide by one hundred.... that is how many months car needs to last till if breaks again.. I had one of these... that at 158k i dumped 4k into... (she rests with 304k on her) she went 100k.. with just basic maint.... tires and oil... 232k... Is high and 699 is high.. what does car need? regards, Micky It needs a clutch apparently. It comes with a full set of winter and summer tires all on rims. That is what the higher price is for. The seller says he only drove it a few hundred miles before the clutch went out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravenwoods Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 3 minutes ago, mickytrus said: I read again.. you are saying clutch.. best way to do clutch is pull the motor... and then. definetly put in new motor mounts BUT CAN THEY BE PURCHASED? these where a dealer part last I remembered.. also.... pulling motor means unbolting exhaust from heads... this can be unpleasant!. bolts are all burt up... rusted. SO CHECK THEM..., they are on the head... might as well do some new gaskets while you are there ie: rear seal.... and then dependiing how deep into motor u want to go... re spooge/ sealant cam boxes valve covers.. front of motor.. water pump timing belt... and seals in tgat region... throw cam covers and center pully cover front halves in garbage. install only backs of covers... you will thank me later..... yeah... that car is either a freebie..... dont pay more than hundred bucks for it... I’ve decided not to get it. I’ll leave it for some one who already has a Loyale and needs parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 13” tires. useless..... can’t use em on anything else..... really, the price is unrealistic.. you dump cash... and labor... what is cars sellable value? is it greater or less than efforts plus cash? remember too! hunrded dollar rule! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 good idea!.. but remember.... hundred dollar rule... last year or so.. I got a 98 outback 5 speed very sweet little jem... just looking to not go to junkyard for 400.00 dollars... I shelled out maybe 1500.. just bought tires recently... anothrr 400.00 ... so say... $ 2500.00 have car now nineteen months... 19x100. that is 1900.00 hopefully I don’t have to shell out more cash... see if she goes.. another six months.... NOW::: mileage I drove car 34k miles... ALSO......... I never figured into this amount... my labor fixing vehicle..... WELL!, knoledge is power!!!!! that is what I get to reap... IT BEATS CAR PAYMENTS AND INSURANCE COLLISION... So yeah, hundred dollar rule.... keeps it safe and reasonable.. don’t forget it... regards, Micky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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