I found me a 2.2 for my postal wagon today. They will tow it, replace the engine, with one they say has less than 40,000 miles for around 1700.00 this includes them putting my new seals, water pump, and timming belt on that I was going to put in my other engine. The one that crashed the valves when idle pully came apart.

They say these engines come from Japan, they get them somewhere from a warehouse in one day.

I did find cheaper engine's other places but wanted to try this all at one place for less hassle (I Hope)

Did you determine that the timing belt was correct and the valves were trashed?

99OBW

 

I am glad you asked, I would like to go over this, I put the two cam pullys notches to the marks in back cover then I lined the notch on the crank pully to 12:00 and in line with notch on oil pump. I had a new Subaru belt and put the broken dots on crank mark, and the straight lines on cam marks. Teeth spacing was correct.

At this setting the # 1 piston is not at top but in center. Haynes says to bring the # 1 piston to T.D.C. Why go to the trouble if you can just line the marks? Please someone tell me what the little triangle is for on the face side of the crank spocket. However as for knowing for sure I used a compression gauge and only had compression in the # 4 clyinder. I then tried the Haynes way of bringing the #1 to the top. I think if I remember right this put the little triangle on the face at 12:00:

$1700 isn't bad...because a timing belt job and all that is pretty steep.

 

 

Where did you find this deal from? I'm interested.

I think the Haynes manual mentioning TDC can be confusing. The engine doesn't need to be on TDC for #1 in order for things to line back up correctly. You only need to align the mark on the crank sprocket with the mark on the oil pump, and align the marks on the cam sprockets with the marks on the timing covers. It sounds like you did it correctly.

 

This document might help you.

 

http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf

 

I would double and triple check before spending money on a different engine.

Mattocs

 

I got this from Import Specialists in Ft. Worth their phone # is 817-921-3944 Iam sure they could give you information on their souce of engines. They do not have the engines there they come from another place. You can find some cheaper at wrecking yards but I needed my car back fast for my job and this seems the best way for me to get this done. I cannot recommend these motors yet this is my first experience with them.

I own a 99 Subaru Forester. I have been informed on several occasions by SOA that the 2.5L Phase II is NOT an interference engine. In fact, the 2.5L Phase II IS an interference engine. At first there were Phase I and Phase II 2.5L engines. Now it turns out that some early 99 2.5L engines may be hybrids, containing bits of both the Phase I and Phase II engines. I have also seen the SOA recommendations for towing AT and MT vehicles change.

Bottom line:

It has been posted that the 2.2L became an interference type in MY99. Proir to MY 99 the 2.2L was reprtedly a non-interference type engine. So check carefully before replacing the engine.

Its already gone to motor place, wrecker picked it up today. I done more than double and triple check. I done it the correct way, the Haynes way, then redone it by marking the lines and turning the crank pully 360 degrees. This was my third timing belt change, the motor had 287,000 miles and I have done all the seal, timing belts and water pump since it has been out or warranty. One cylinder had about 150 p.s.i. the rest would not even make a puff of air. (Maybe) the motor trashed and ruined the pully but I drove it nearly 100 miles after it started squealing. Their is a bright light to this! those timing belt jobs get real easy when you do them around seven or eight times straight. Got to where I didnt even need anyone to hold it in place while putting it on. I bought this 97 Legacy Wagon new in Nov. 1996 it is a 1997 model but the valves was trashed somehow.