Exhaust leak where 2 exhaust pipes meet

[davedave]

I have a 1999 Subaru Forester. I have an exhaust leak between where 2 exhaust pipes connect.  The connection between the 2 pipes is all rusted.  I think there is a gasket that would need to be replaced, but I'm not sure what to do to overall as I am not sure if the collar looking piece around both pipes is permanently attached or comes off (I think it's attached).  I have attached pictures.  If it is attached, then how do I fix this?   Thanks. 

 

 

 

 

[lmdew]

Yes there is a exhaust donut gasket.  GD posted a repair for the pipe flanges a few weeks ago.

 

Not sure what the brand was.  You can search the USMB.

Here's a quick google search.

[davedave]

Thanks.  I've only posted a couple times in the past, so I don't know who GD is, or where to find the post.  But, I think my main question is: How am I going to separate the 2 pipes that are still attached with the 2 very rusty bolts?

[davedave]

Sorry one more question.  You said a donut gasket.  The connection I am talking about with these 2 pipes is towards the back of the car.  So, the bad connection is not the catalytic converter connection.  So, I am thinking it's the thinner gasket, but I must admit it looks kind of thick in the picture.

[heartless]

it is a donut type and they are pretty common

as for the old bolts, cut them - angle grinder would be fastest, saws-all, even a jigsaw will do the job

if you can, go in between the two pipes to cut, but if not, then get as close to the existing flange as you can.

[lmdew]

Yep thin gasket.  I've been able to grind them flat.

I have some good mid-pipes and mufflers.  80919

www.car-part.com is also a good source.  Pick a rust free location.

[davedave]

lmdew - you said donut gasket, as did heartless above, but then your last response said thin gasket.  So, I'm a bit confused.  

Pardon my ignorance.  Is the rounded collar looking thing (circled in red below) the gasket that is going over the 2 pipes to connect them, and the the two pipes are just straight pipes, or is the rounded piece on the pipes actually part of the pipe itself, and the gasket is just the part between that has the broken gap?

 

 

Edited April 4, 2022 by davedave
Better question

[brus brother]

dave
Welcome to the board.

You identify Boyds as your city. If it is Boyds, Martyland, (Go Terps) take your photo into Autozone in Germantown and with year and model, they will sell you the exact donut gasket which as the name implies is shaped like a donut (not flat) and the spring bolt setup like this LINK that you will need. Looks like the donut and spring bolts will set you back around $25 total.

The picture posted above by Imdew is the joint in your picture (minus the rust). Called a "flex joint" the springs and the thickness of the donut allow for... "flex" as the exhaust flexes and vibrates, preventing exhaust leaks.

Don't overthink this. You might be able to cut through where the donut sits as described above by Heartless. A shop would probably torch the bolts off and be done. You might get lucky but trying to unbolt it the way it is rusted will probably torture you by rounding off the bolts and nuts.

Edited April 4, 2022 by brus brother

[lmdew]

Highlighted is the donut flex joint.  Further aft are flat gaskets.

[lmdew]

http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_10/exhaust_system/exhaust/illustration_1/

[heartless]

if that is indeed the rear joint, there is no way a new gasket is going to fix it.. not with the condition of that joint.

in an ideal world, the best way to fix it would be to replace the two sections - the mid pipe and the muffler section - with rust free, used OE parts (OE is far superior to aftermarket)

in a more realistic world, finding a shop that does nothing but exhaust work would be the next best option. they can fix that area right, and usually for not a lot of money.
once upon a time i had a similar problem, and the shop i took the car to welded in a patch and only charged me about $30 - took them less than 30 minutes to do, too.

[brus brother]

OP's first picture sure looks like it is a (rusty) spring+bolt connector on one side so ... flex joint?

The further aft junctions don't use springs as posted by Imdew.

That being said, the collars are pretty shabby and might still leak around the donut.

BTW, I have an issue with my 08 where the rear pipe Vs off to the rear mufflers and have bought time using furnace grade high temp caulk from Home Depot.

Edited April 4, 2022 by brus brother

[ThosL]

If you can find a mechanic or exhaust shop that allows you to get the parts and then charge you based on their time that may be the way to go.  Get the parts at Rock Auto or Amazon.  I have not found a work around when the joints are damaged or corroded, but as others said it may well be possible.  Someone with welding skills can be hard to find on the side.  

[lmdew]

I may have the Mid and muffler for you.  Shipped from 80919.

I could cut off the flanges and as much pipe as you want to reduce shipping.  Have a shop expand the pipes slip them on and bolt and clamp them up.

[davedave]

Thanks for the replies.  The problem area is where #7 and #9 connect in lmdew's diagram.  So, that is why I thought there was no donut and spring involved.  Do the above answers change based on that location?

Here is a picture taken from the rear side of the car (red circle is the problem area).  The top of the picture is the rear side.  The muffler is not in the picture, but it would be above the top side of the picture after an additional bend toward the rear.  The tires you see at the bottom of the picture is the front of the car.

Edited April 5, 2022 by davedave

[brus brother]

Sorry I doubted you.  #7 is LINK so it isn't a donut after all. With that in mind, it now looks to be a pretty large gap in your first pic with really rough mating surfaces.

I've never used something like THIS or THIS but it would require cutting out the joint and mating  the "bandage". Without a lift, it can be challenging.

I remember someone using aluminum roof flashing (or was it a beer can) to wrap around a hole in a pipe and secure with SS pipe clamps.

As suggested above, shop around smaller non-chain muffler shops and see if someone can't just cut and weld in a hard splice or ask if they would use the flex joint linked above?

Edited April 5, 2022 by brus brother

[lmdew]

Muffler shop, to cut and weld in a section.  If you want to keep the joint, see my post above.

[davedave]

Thanks.  What do you think it would cost to have a muffler shop weld in a new section, or for that matter to cut the pipe, and then insert the flex spring joint you posted above?  And would I want to go to an individual repair shop that fixes exhausts rather than a chain place like Midas or Meinike.

[heartless]

1 hour ago, davedave said:

Thanks.  What do you think it would cost to have a muffler shop weld in a new section, or for that matter to cut the pipe, and then insert the flex spring joint you posted above?  And would I want to go to an individual repair shop that fixes exhausts rather than a chain place like Midas or Meinike.

all depends on your location, really - what might cost me 20-30 here in rural northern WI might cost more in a larger metro area.
and most definitely go with an independent, not a chain. A chain most likely wont do a repair like that, they would want to sell you a whole new exhaust system.

ask around, co-workers, friends, etc.. see what shakes out recommendation wise.. then go in and talk to the shop.