Check Engine Light Decoding on an EA82

[Xithael]

Hello everyone, I have a check engine light post-complete rebuild of my EA82, and this means I can’t get it smogged, ergo I can’t get it registered, either. Does anyone have either the method or the decoder sheet for the EA82 Brats, Justys, etc? I looked some stuff up on google; from what my grandpa says, my car (1992 Loyale) doesn’t have OBD, and google outlined some tips, but you still need a decoder, right? I’m not very experienced. On a previous post I made, another forum user posted what I can only assume is the digital version of the holy grail for Leone/Loyale/Justy/Brat owners (several manufacturers’ guidelines, manuals, guides on engine and brake swaps, etc), but after flipping through it, I couldn’t find a single decoder sheet. Does anyone have anything of the sort? Thanks in advance, y’all

[el_freddo]

To get the codes you need to connect two plugs above the driver’s feet. I can never remember if it’s the green or black plugs. 

Then put the ignition into the on position, watch the check engine light. The CEL will flash long and short dashes. Long are multiples of ten where as short are just ones. 

Example: long long long short long short short = code 31 and code 12

Once all codes have been displayed the ECU will cycle through the codes again until you turn the ignition off. Don’t forget to unplug the test connectors. 

As for a code reference list, I recall there being a good one in the Haynes manual. It’s been ages since I had to play with the EA82 codes. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[SuspiciousPizza]

As Benny said, there should be a green connector under the steering column. Connect these (I believe 4-pin) green connectors and flip the key to ON. Watch the ECU light flashing. Short flashes are values of 1, long flashes are values of 10. There will be short pauses between codes. Disconnect this connector when you're done pulling codes.

For a check engine light, this can (maybe not in this instance) be a check engine light that pops up when nothing is wrong to notify the driver to get the car serviced. I believe these cars will pop up a check engine light every 40,000 (?) miles, again just as a service reminder.

:]

[azdave]

2 hours ago, SuspiciousPizza said:

For a check engine light, this can (maybe not in this instance) be a check engine light that pops up when nothing is wrong to notify the driver to get the car serviced. I believe these cars will pop up a check engine light every 40,000 (?) miles, again just as a service reminder.

My 87 DL wagon with a stock EA82 just popped on the CEL light upon first start today but went out about 100' down the road. I'm at roughly 254K miles. I haven't checked yet to see what code(s) are stored. I hope the light was one of those "service reminders" that really mean nothing. I have not tried to get the DL to pass Arizona emissions since I got it three years ago. I insure it as a classic vehicle instead and get an exemption. Once I put the full new exhaust and converters in place, I may try to run it though the DMV the test just to see if it will pass. It is $17 to have them sniff it and find out.

[Xithael]

So there may be a small problem in that I only see one green plug and it’s already plugged in, way in the back corner of the cubby below the steering rack. The only outwardly accessible plug is a brown male and female plug with a blue and a black wire, and a brown male plug with a yellow wire and black wire. Should I try messing with them while the ignition is at “on” or will that break things? Thanks in advance

[SuspiciousPizza]

The test connector is the 4-pin green plug (mine has a yellow, black, red, and white/yellow wires). Not sure about the brown plug, but it doesn't have to do with pulling codes. 

I'd turn the key off when connecting or disconnecting any connectors. But I have accidentally driven with my test connector connected so it *shouldn't* send sparks flying or making any magic smoke. 

:]

[subaru1988]

They can't be all that different? How about this?

https://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/#codes88multi

[Xithael]

7 hours ago, SuspiciousPizza said:

The test connector is the 4-pin green plug (mine has a yellow, black, red, and white/yellow wires). Not sure about the brown plug, but it doesn't have to do with pulling codes. 

I'd turn the key off when connecting or disconnecting any connectors. But I have accidentally driven with my test connector connected so it *shouldn't* send sparks flying or making any magic smoke. 

:]

Is it a light green? Or sort of darker green? The only one I have is very bright green.

[Xithael]

5 hours ago, subaru1988 said:

They can't be all that different? How about this?

https://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/#codes88multi

Thank you so much, I found some engine codes elsewhere but this list is much better, especially due to me having the SPFI as opposed to the MPFI 🙏🙏

[scoobydube]

Better to figure out why it does not work right, instead getting some vague description of a problem from trouble codes.  What are the symptoms?  For instance, my car suddenly decided not to maintain it's idle, even when giving it enough gas.  Then it would suddenly run right for a mile, but then do the same thing later.  I first replaced the alternator since I keep a spare.  No change.  Then I swapped out the two engine relay switches.  No change.  So that narrowed it down to the distributor for me.  So I thought that the distributor brains were going out.  I pulled the distributor and was ready to swap out the brains with a backup distributor with the wrong gearing, and by chance I sucked on the timing advance diaphragm inlet.  Vella!  It would not hold a vacuum.  So, I swapped out the timing advance diaphragm and it worked perfectly again.  Obviously, I saved myself from have an actual Subaru dealer look at it, where they either would not likely be able to figure it out, or they would have fixed it, charged my a small fortune in order to get my car back, and sabotaged it so that I would have to bring it back in 30 days.  Standard Subaru mechanic scam.

[el_freddo]

19 hours ago, SuspiciousPizza said:

Watch the ECU light flashing.

Ah yeah I forgot about this EA82 detail - the codes flash from the LED on the side of the ECU.

EJ onwards the CEL does all the flashing and the ECU LED was deleted. Can you tell what I play with these days? 

As for the bright green plug, its buddy could be taped to the wiring loom if it’s not been used. Stranger things have happened… 

Cheers 

Bennie

[SuspiciousPizza]

This is the connector you're looking for, there'll be a male connector of the same color. I just don't have a photo showing them connected. 

If you get tired of twisting yourself under the steering column looking for wires, remove the driver seat. It's 4 bolts, one on each corner of the seat and it frees up a lot of space to move around. 

:]