92 Loyale clicking during acceleration after replacing front cv axles

[cherrythesubaru]

Just replaced both front cv axles on my lifted 92 Loyale (5spd manual 4wd) and I'm getting some nasty clicking/clunking noise multiple times per rotation during acceleration straight or on turns. There is no noise while coasting in neutral.

I used aftermarket axles as the originals had already been replaced and the axle lengths seemed to match what was already on the vehicle when I bought it. 

Could this just be a result of using shitty aftermarket axles that can't handle the angles of the lift? What should I check for potential issues caused by errors during install? 

 

[SuspiciousPizza]

How high is your lift? I've heard 2" is about the limit of the axles but I'm not experienced in lifting these cars so other's experiences may differ.

It seems to be the general consensus that aftermarket axles aren't worth running if it's avoidable. 

If anything, check out the grease in the joints. I highly doubt they'd assemble them dry but knowing the quality of modern aftermarket parts for these cars, it also wouldn't surprise me. 

I'd try packing the joints with a good quality grease and seeing what happens. I recommend Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide grease. It comes in 4.5oz bottles which is the perfect amount for one joint. I squeeze out as much as I can into the joint, then I cut the bottle open and scoop the rest into the boot. It's expensive but it's very good grease. 

Try looking out for used OEM axles. It's a pain to track the right axles down but if you run them with good grease and quality neoprene boots they should be just fine.

:]

[bushytails]

It's kinda hard to know what's up without being in the car, but some other things that make noises...  most of which I've seen before...

Does the noise get worse when turning?  If not, it's not outer CV joint angles.  I've only broken one joint from exceeding its angle, and it was flexing the suspension while at full lock. 

Does the noise go away if you have a passenger (or 300lbs of bricks, or something) in the front seat?  If not, it's probably not inner cv joint angles.  Feel if the shaft can wiggle in and out a bit, or if it's jammed up against the side of the cup.  Wiggle the inner cups up and down to make sure they're free on the splines, not jammed downwards by the shaft.

Bad wheel bearings or loose wheel hubs (the hub nut needs quite a bit of torque), causing brake rotor to clip caliper bracket.  I've seen this a half dozen times...  Also make sure no gremlins stole the cone washers when you were putting it back together.  Jack it up and make sure you can't wiggle the wheels in any direction.  Lug nuts are tight too, right?

Bad transmission; differential going out.  Not sure how to diagnose this one.  I haven't seen it myself, but I've heard of it for that year range, especially on full-time transmissions.  Does it do it in reverse too?

Worn transmission stub shaft splines causing the inner cups to flop around.  I've only seen this cause vibrations, but noise is possible too.

Bad driveshaft u-joint.  Probably not if it's a part-time transmission; possible if it's a full-time.

Broken transmission or engine mounts (including pitch stop), and you're hearing the transmission banging the crossmember or tunnel or such.

Wrong axle length, I guess,  Never seen it, but it's a possibility.  Hop on the fender while watching the shaft, and make sure it can move in further than the resting position.

Defective axles.  Some of the chinese ones are really crap.  I have GSP ones now and they seem better than the other chinese brands I've used.

 

[el_freddo]

I’d put my money on the aftermarket shafts being the issue. 

Been there a few times ;( 

I do like the suggestions from bushytails. As for the front diff issues, I’ve never seen an issue with the manual transmissions and their front diffs. 

 

[cherrythesubaru]

Thanks yall. 

I jacked it up again today and made sure the axle nut was tight as well as the lug nuts. There is a little vertical play in the passenger side wheel but that was there before when there was no clicking noise prior to replacing the cv's (I have to replace the wheel bearings but didn't have time while doing the axles). I could replace the bearings and see if that fixes it 

Noise is the same while turning and I haven't been able to test with another passenger yet but will try to do that today. The inner cups seem to have a lil bit of play - don't think they are jammed downwards by the shafts. 

Cone washers are installed.

This noise only started after replacing the cv axles so I don't think there are any issues that suddenly arose with the transmission, driveshaft, or engine mounts. 

I've uploaded a video of me driving here: https://youtube.com/shorts/xNpCdfp6KzQ?feature=share 

Hope this is helpful!

 

[SuspiciousPizza]

If you do wheel bearings I'd recommend buying sealed bearings and foregoing the seals. If anything take one seal off each bearing, face the unsealed sides into the knuckle and pack grease between them inside the knuckle. The seals are a real pain in my opinion.

Front bearings are super easy compared to the rears, if you lift the engine & trans as a unit to get the axles out then you don't have to detach any suspension components. If anything take your outer tie rods out of the knuckle but I got away without it. Putting the axles back in, you may have to loosen/partially drop the control arms.

:] 

Edited 4 hours ago by SuspiciousPizza

[bushytails]

Were these new or reman axles?

[bushytails]

I've never heard axles that bad going in a straight line...