quick question (I have alot of these) anyway, are the front wheel bearings suposed to be pressed on to the cv axles so firmly that when you remove the axle, it takes the bearing with?

Some of the bearings are quite tight; but the bearing shouldn't come out when you remove the axle.

If the axle shaft got rusty, I could perhaps see that happening. Not common at all tho. At any rate, the bearing is toast now, as you are never supposed to exert any force on the inner race, and that's what happened when the axle pulled it from the knuckle...

 

GD

yep, well the car is put together with the new axle and the ruined bearing for now, anyone have any idea how much new bearings go for?

btw, thanks for the knowledge, I didn't think that was right, My dad just claimed they're pressed on and I have to get a bearing press to get it off...

Carl, a bearing press is nice, but not needed. If you're careful you can replace the bearings by tapping them in with a drift punch. Out is easier since you need not worry about damaging the bearing race. I'd suggest you pull a front assembly at Pull a Part, check it for good bearing first, and then re-grease the bearings and install that instead. Less downtime and you'll have an easier time of it; also, the entire assembly with bearings will likely cost you less than new bearings. By the way, are you still looking for rear disks?

I had a bearing come out w/ an axle on an EA82. Examination did reveal a little bit of pitting in the hub. I cleaned w/ a bit of emery cloth, and ended up doing both bearings.

 

 

If you need to go cheap there are 2-3 bearing shops on 4th av S off the michigan exit- I think its a '209'. I picked up sealed bearings down there for about $15 each, the guy quoted @$11 for regular (about $10-15 less that Schucks/action) Seals you will have to pick up at an auto parts store probably for about $5 ea.

 

BTW I am not convinced sealed ones are the way to go. No matter what small grit can work its way in there. Plus the outer race has only about a millimeter exposed so tapping them in w/anything but another bearing is probably a bad idea.

Autozone has em for about $12 for Timken bearings.... you really ought to replace both if you are going to do it, and both of the seals as well - the seals run about $5 (also Timken IIRC).

 

I think I would go for the sealed units if you have a nice way to install them as Sven sugested.... but the non-sealed are cheaper, and can be installed with a drift without removing the hub from the car.

 

GD

Carl, a bearing press is nice, but not needed. If you're careful you can replace the bearings by tapping them in with a drift punch. Out is easier since you need not worry about damaging the bearing race. I'd suggest you pull a front assembly at Pull a Part, check it for good bearing first, and then re-grease the bearings and install that instead. Less downtime and you'll have an easier time of it; also, the entire assembly with bearings will likely cost you less than new bearings. By the way, are you still looking for rear disks?

Yes I am ... if ya have any, I will give 100 bucks for a set. Thanks, Yeah austin's got a nice parts wagon with good bearings, we're gonna pull them from that car. I just got done talking to him after I posted lol

yeah if I do one bearing, I'm gonna do the entire hub... May as well. But hey, thanks everyone for the help and input. Gonna get this thing fixed up here tomarrow or tonight hopefully.