Left_coast*9 Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 Well, you've prolly seen my other posts re: me replacing my timing belts (88 DL EA82 4WD wagon, 223K mi) -- this job is in progress as I type this. I'm also installing new oil pump, water pump, idler pulley and tensioners. Now I am wondering if I should replace my radiator too. I had to take it out to get to everything else, and noticed that some of the little fins are pretty darn brittle. Is this normal? It looks like it could be the original but it's hard to tell. As far as cooling is concerned, my motor tends to overheat *only* on the hottest days, upper 90's, etc. I have to literally turn the heater on full blast in some cases to keep it from overheating. I see I'm kinda talking myself into it but I have dumped so much $$ into it already I want to avoid it if possible. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 you need to avoid overheating at all costs. I would spend the cash and get a good 2 row replacement or at least a new 1 row. yeah the fins gradually dissapear and you dont cool as well. EA82 motors seem to be particularly sensitive to overheating(blown HGs and cracked heads) thats why I run the bigger 2 row radiator ,have an oil cooler, and im sure the intercooler helps too. but Im a turbo guy. we need to worry more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Left_coast*9 Posted October 16, 2004 Author Share Posted October 16, 2004 you need to avoid overheating at all costs. I would spend the cash and get a good 2 row replacement or at least a new 1 row. yeah the fins gradually dissapear and you dont cool as well. EA82 motors seem to be particularly sensitive to overheating(blown HGs and cracked heads) thats why I run the bigger 2 row radiator ,have an oil cooler, and im sure the intercooler helps too. but Im a turbo guy. we need to worry more. Thanks for replying to all my posts today, RallyRuss. So where the heck do I get a new two-row replacement radiator? I was just going to go through Autozone or maybe Napa for the standard (I assume one-row) replacement. What are they, about $150? $200? thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 there are some cheap sources on line that some of the guys use. I personaly use my local parts store. just request a 2row. the last one I got was a performance radiator the othor was somthing else. both were good quality. mine were less that 200$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 as for answering your questions. Thats what we do here. I do recomend the search function too but some times its a bit tricky to find the answer you are looking for. just dont ask whats the fourmula for calculating the muffler bearing drag under a specific condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobywagon Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 just dont ask whats the fourmula for calculating the muffler bearing drag under a specific condition. Puhhhlease....muffler bearing drag only becomes noticable if you aren't using synthetic turn signal fluid in your bivalve extruders. Besides, the new sodium filled canuter valves really open things up for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 Puhhhlease....muffler bearing drag only becomes noticable if you aren't using synthetic turn signal fluid in your bivalve extruders. Besides, the new sodium filled canuter valves really open things up for you! I see you have done your research young. one you may snatch the pebble. uh yeah change the radiator your car will thank you 2 row best. 1 row still better than bunk old radiator. do what you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Left_coast*9 Posted October 16, 2004 Author Share Posted October 16, 2004 Puhhhlease....muffler bearing drag only becomes noticable if you aren't using synthetic turn signal fluid in your bivalve extruders. Besides, the new sodium filled canuter valves really open things up for you! Scooby-- thanks, but I just changed my turn signal fluid. My bivalves are all set. Thanks for the replies, all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stansgl Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 Radiator.com $106 for EA81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bishop Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 Radiator.com $106 for EA81 Hehe, I just ordered one from them. They haggled with me a bit on the price though. At first they wanted to charge me $169.00 for a 2 row with a lifetime warranty, then $144.00 for a one year warranty. I told 'em no way, and I could get it cheaper locally. They freaked when I said Auto Zone and shipped it to my door for a cool $109.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 I've found the best price for local purchase to be at a mom-and-pop... er, well, pop anyway, radiator shop. Comes all boxed from Modine for $160-ish; NAPA wants $15-20 more for same unit. I get all my 'puter stuff online, but still leary about fragile things like radiators and fine crystal. Regardless, spend the buck$ and get a good 2-row... did I forget to say COPPER?!?! Copper, copper, copper. Aluminum does not belong in heat exchangers. Gee, does my bias show? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Left_coast*9 Posted October 16, 2004 Author Share Posted October 16, 2004 I've found the best price for local purchase to be at a mom-and-pop... er, well, pop anyway, radiator shop. Comes all boxed from Modine for $160-ish; NAPA wants $15-20 more for same unit. I get all my 'puter stuff online, but still leary about fragile things like radiators and fine crystal. Regardless, spend the buck$ and get a good 2-row... did I forget to say COPPER?!?! Copper, copper, copper. Aluminum does not belong in heat exchangers. Gee, does my bias show? Thanks for all the help, Northwet. Say, how do you like the auto trannys in your GL turbo wagons, anyway? Would you have one in a non-turbo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 Thanks for all the help, Northwet. Say, how do you like the auto trannys in your GL turbo wagons, anyway? Would you have one in a non-turbo? I have autos becaus I have wife and kids. I learned to drive on a non-sychro first-gear tranny, and find clutches usually unneeded. I prefer a manual over the ATs... That being said, my '85 never ran right, and is still getting changed (actually, other things needed fixing on it and slowed down completion). Our '87 came with blown vacuum modulator, 2+-qts low on fluid (remainder pretty toasted), and gummed governor. Once I got it straightened out the tranny seems to work ok. The AT in the turbo has enough power, at least around town. I am unfamiliar with the power of non-turbos, would would think that they would be marginal with an AT. But, then, I did drive early '70s toyaotas with AT... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.