So the day has finally come.

 

The cruddy clutch that was in my BRAT gave out. I have hoping to get a little more use out of it, but no such luck. It's stuck in fourth.

 

So getting a brand new clutch kit for $102.00 and gonna slap that sucker in. Ok maybe not slap as it will probably take me twice as long to do this b/c it's my first time. I am going for the engine removal method.

 

I plan to re-seal oil pan and the valve covers and adjust the valves.

Anything else I need to do?

 

Also what other parts do you anticipate I need. Like exhaust gaskets or something like that. I did soak the exhaust bolts w/some wd-40, hopefully they won't break off.

 

wish me luck.

 

BW

... wish me luck.

 

BW

LUCK!

 

Clutch jobs are easy enough, as long as the parts man gives you the right parts and the flywheel machinist doesn't fall asleep!

 

BTW, is this the '82 Brat that you mentioned in my thread?

BTW, is this the '82 Brat that you mentioned in my thread?

No that's another one that I saw in someone's driveway.

 

His is red. It runs but he's a mechanic so his car get's negelected.

sounds like you got the game plan all set out. Those sound like the only gaskets you're gonna need....oil pan, valvecovers, maybe a rear main oil seal if its leaking, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate and I would recommend getting the flywheel machined if it can be. Just make sure you grease the input shaft of the tranny for the T.O. bearing and the tip of it for the pilot bearing. It also makes it a little easier on reinstalling the engine giving it a little bit to slide on.

No that's another one that I saw in someone's driveway.

 

His is red. It runs but he's a mechanic so his car get's negelected.

"The Cobbler's children go barefoot." I know what that is like!

I would do the rear main seal as long as you have it out. and front crank seal as those seem to start leaking often.

how do I get to those two seals?

 

can someone please give a simple tutorial?

 

BW

the rear main seal is behind the flywheel. you may want to have it resurfaced as well. once you take off the flywheel you will see the seal, along with a smaller "O-ring" flat rubber seal. (I've never found a replacement for the flat rubber seal).

 

for the front crank seal, you have to take off the front pulley to get at it....

 

do you have the "How to keep your subaru alive" book? if not, email me...

i have the book.

 

Will take a look at it tomorrow.

 

I am looking at Kragen on line and they have a Beck-Arnley Seal:Front Crank. Is that what I am looking for?

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=0523200&PartType=925&PTSet=A

 

Thanks

 

BW

Well it went much worse than I thought it would go.

 

Got the engine out Friday night. So we tried to work the shifter and it's STILL STUCK IN 4th. So basically the tranny is screwed.

 

Saturday I go to the PAP and I find a Hatch that looks like it was rolled w/a DR 4SP. Took up 1 hour to pull and 1/2 or so to bang out the drive shaft.

 

Sunday cleaned the Tranny w/Gunk and removed the old tranny. I pull the cover off of the old tranny and I notice some holes in the walls below the gears.

 

So now that I have the tranny and engine out....I plan to tighten up the shifter. What would I need if I were to fab up a 2inch lift right now?

 

Also is there a seal that I need to replace in the rear driveshaft?

BUMP.

 

for a response re:Lift.

well, there will be at a minimum 18 bolts that get replaced with longer ones.

 

you'll need the following blocks:

 

Front:

(2 blocks, 4 bolts) engine crossmember blocks. one long block each side where the crossmember mounts to the frame rails

(6 blocks, 6 bolts) radius rod blocks. 3 each side. where the plates that hold the swaybar/tranny crossmsmber attach to the body

(2 blocks) Strut block tops. new top bolts need to be offset to push in the struts at the top...

steering extension. unbolt the "T" piece, cut, extend 2", weld tube around the bar.

 

(4 blocks, 4 bolts) torsion bar. 2 blocks each side.

(2 blocks, 4 bolts) diff hanger blocks. 1 block each side.

shock extensions. original BYB kit came with a bottom extension, which worked fine unless you were carrying a LOT of weight. they never broke,but pivoted under the weight.

 

the most expensive part will be getting the proper metric bolts in the longer size. also need to make sure the angle on the strut top is correct. might need to try a couple different times on that one to get the proper angle for your camber.

 

or you can get a kit from PK at http://www.ozified.com

I need to confirm the wiring for the coil.

 

Positive terminal has three wires to it. One black from the disty, one black from the resistor and one yellow black.

negative terminal has two wires to it. One yellow from the disty and one yellow red.

Here is what's been happening with the engine swap.

 

The tranny and the engine are both mated together. All hoses and wires are connect and once I finish tightening down the tranny engine bolts, replace the alternator belt and change the gear oil in the tranny I should be ready to fire it up.

 

Here is a summary of the completed project

 

S/R to D/R swap.

Replaced tranny

Shifter slop fixed

Removed AC components.

Installed cyclops grill light

Re-sealed oil pan, valve covers and rear main seal

Adjsted valves

And all I was suppose to do was replace the clutch.

 

Thanks for all of the help

 

BW

WOO HOOOO..

 

Finished up yesterday. All bolts and wires got connected and fired her up.

 

The only thing that I noticed was that the clutch cable is badly stretched. So I will need a new one of those.

 

I think there is some drive shaft vibration in 4wd that needs to be looked at.

 

BW