Anyone have problems with their rear hatch lock on a Legacy? Mine is a '96, and the solenoid sounds like it's popping when the driver's door lock switch is engaged and disengaged, but the damn door still won't open. Of course, this happens intermittently...

 

Was wondering if something common breaks back there before I tear it apart.

 

Tiny

Tiny Clark,

 

Its not a big deal to take the panel off the inside of the rear hatch to get to the source of the problem. Its pretty intuitive. My guess is the the lock selenoid arm has come disconnected from the lock mechanism (its just held on with a clip and maybe the clip has broken or come undone), or the selenoid has come undone and can't put any pressure on the unlocking rod. Five minutes after you start removing the panel, you'll have your answer. Good luck!

Danke, I'll rip it apart tonight!!

I had the same issue, with a different solution. The handle you squeeze to open the hatchback was getting sticky. When I squeezed it to open the hatch, the spring didn't return the handle to its original position -- like it's still being squeezed part-way. When you close the hatch, it shuts and locks, but won't unlock. The solution is to stick your finger up under the handle and help the spring return the handle to where it belongs, then you can lock and unlock.

 

Some lubricant would probably fix the problem forever -- I just give the handle a little help when it doesn't return all the way.

 

Hope you haven't ripped your door apart yet!

The whole panel on my rear hatch is rusted and in bad shape. I have to bring the handle back into position because the spring no longer works. I'd love to replace the part but I can't seem to find it here.

The whole panel on my rear hatch is rusted and in bad shape. I have to bring the handle back into position because the spring no longer works. I'd love to replace the part but I can't seem to find it here.

If it is in the condition that you describe, I would find a "Pull A Part" wrecker that has a similar car to yours (same year, and body type) and simply replace the rear hatch. The line that makes this the best route is "The whole panel on my rear hatch is rusted and in bad shape." This indicates that there may not be enough metal left on the rear hatch to make repairs to. . .

After ripping it apart, snoutmeat is the winner. I tried to clean and lube the handle, but it still wouldn't always seat itself back to the original postion.

 

So, I adjusted the arm nut two turns. The arm nut is at the handle end, and it pops out of the white plastic on the handle.

 

Works fine now. I did grease up everything else while I was in there as well.

 

Thanks, AND MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!!

SEASONS GREETINGS to those that may be offended by the word Christmas, not that I particularly give a crap if you were.

Tiny Clark,

 

You're a sick person! But I laughed anyway.

Tiny Clark,

 

Its not a big deal to take the panel off the inside of the rear hatch to get to the source of the problem. Its pretty intuitive. My guess is the the lock selenoid arm has come disconnected from the lock mechanism (its just held on with a clip and maybe the clip has broken or come undone), or the selenoid has come undone and can't put any pressure on the unlocking rod. Five minutes after you start removing the panel, you'll have your answer. Good luck!

I have exactly the same problem as Clark with my 99 legacy outback rear gate, only it passed the "intermittenly" stage and stay locked permanantly last week. (I just found this wonderful site today.)

 

My question is how I can open the rear hatch door so I can take the panel off? turning key back and forth repeatly stop working now. (I almost suspect if I triggered the keyless-entry reprogram sequence by turing the key too many times.)

 

Thanks.

I had to replace mine, for the same reasons. I got the panel off by climbing into the "trunk" and working from the inside. I can't remember how I eventually got the hatch open, but I think I did most of the work with it closed anyway because it was all easier to reach.

 

Commuter posted excellent instructions and parts numbers (and the thread had some reasons why these things go bad on our late 90's subies). I used those to replace mine. Got the parts from 1stsubaruparts.com

 

Click on the search button at the top of the page and type in "hatch latch rusted". I got 4 threads, the last one on my list was the one with the instructions and stuff. It was from May 2002. (I don't know how to post links, sorry!)

Commuter posted excellent instructions and parts numbers (and the thread had some reasons why these things go bad on our late 90's subies). I used those to replace mine. Got the parts from 1stsubaruparts.com

You are always giving me a plug for that post Lesbaru. Thanks.

 

Commuter

If it is in the condition that you describe, I would find a "Pull A Part" wrecker that has a similar car to yours (same year, and body type) and simply replace the rear hatch. The line that makes this the best route is "The whole panel on my rear hatch is rusted and in bad shape." This indicates that there may not be enough metal left on the rear hatch to make repairs to. . .

Yeah, I can't possible make repairs to it at this point.

 

I sneak a peak at other people who have my model SUbaru and Outbacks - most have this problem. 96 models have it pretty bad. I tried pulling from a few junkers but if it's an east coat car it has the same rust pattern.

 

I tried ordering the part from a junker on the westcoast but they wanted to send me the entire rear hatch. In my studio apartment I share with girlfriend and greyhound dog - you know.