<dumb question>

 

Ok, so if Will got 161 and the wheels, and approx. 230 at the crank, does that mean my stock GL wagon with 90 HP only gets about 15 hp at the wheels (at least it feels like that sometimes)?

 

</dumb question>

 

 

Nevertheless, great job there... makes me want to start doing stuff to my car :-)

 

time & money = no where in site

Ah great! A little competition never hurt nobody. You guys can't let Will get away with this.

 

I WILL continue to get away with it.

<dumb question>

 

Ok, so if Will got 161 and the wheels, and approx. 230 at the crank, does that mean my stock GL wagon with 90 HP only gets about 15 hp at the wheels (at least it feels like that sometimes)?

 

</dumb question>

 

 

Nevertheless, great job there... makes me want to start doing stuff to my car :-)

 

time & money = no where in site

 

you should have 63 at the wheels.

Hey Will!!! It's Patrick(EA82TRally from the NASIOC). Congratulations on the dyno numbers! That is mind-blowing to me. The guy who sold me my GL-10 is going to lose conciousness when I tell him about this. Keep up the good work!!

You guys can't let Will get away with this.

Don't worry, we're not;)

Don't worry, we're not;)

And people want to know why I haven't gotten my car running yet..... Might as well do the mods while I have the motor torn apart in my garage:D

Wish I had the cash to do more mods.

Wish I had the cash to do more mods.

From your sig, it looks like you are there. If anything, maybe change the header and/or downpipe but we don't even know if that's necessary. All Will did was crank the boost up to 14-15psi to get his numbers. Come on, take up the Will's Challenge.

 

Nice list of mods btw.

Thank You, Thank You. I didn't think that I would be able to run above 12psi on the stock turbo. Otherwise, I know something I'll be doing once I get my new computer . And if things work out well enough, and the money situation gets better, I might have this muffler shop that I have been going to, make me a header and uppipe assembly. But I plan on doing a turbo swap later, just not sure what turbocharger to go with yet.

a lot of people that are upgrading their turbo are going for a stock WRX turbo which is a TD04. Can be had for about 100-150 bucks depending. I'm about to paypal a guy from nasioc 120 bucks for one with 15k on it and had 2k mile oil changes with synthetic oil, never boosted about 17psi and stuff like that. Just gotta ask:D

Hmmmm. Caleb was saying something to me about that too over on NASIOC. I won't be actually taking this project on until I return from Okinawa, and that won't be for 4 years. So I kinda have a lot of time to sit and study compressor maps and different turbochargers. I have been entertaining the idea of putting a TD05 on my EA82T. Just not too sure about it yet.

anything more that 13 after a while on the stock turbo is not that great...one or two short runs is fine...otherwise, go to a TD04. or VF10/11.

 

the header and DP makes the largest difference in high perfromance...i couold NOT have gotten these numbers with the stock stuff.

the only problem is over 13 you are just making heat....It's not nessessarily bad for the turbo.

 

we've run 13-15 PSI on our race cars all day long, and never had a turbo problem.

the only problem is over 13 you are just making heat....It's not nessessarily bad for the turbo.

 

we've run 13-15 PSI on our race cars all day long, and never had a turbo problem.

 

yeah, thats kinda what I ment.

So does anyone want to theorize why the power hump is there after the installation of an intercooler (in the 2400rpm to 3500rpm or so)? This is the 2nd time I've seen this jump in hp/torque in that range.

 

Also, since it jumps that high, why isn't that horsepower/torque maintained? It just drops off just as suddenly as it came in, then it tapers off slowly.

because thats wher the cams peak at...installing a device that increases TQ/HP only makes that peak 'worse'....thats my guess.

 

Drops off due to lack of proper top end cams, lack of fuel, lack of real timing control, and small turbo size.

Are you sure it's not from compressor surge? I know some manual boost controllers, and even some electronic boost controllers will allow the boost to spike slightly before it settles to the target boost. That's the only thing that I can think of off the top of my head.

Well, that blows my theory out of the water and kinda makes more sense too.

From your sig, it looks like you are there. If anything, maybe change the header and/or downpipe but we don't even know if that's necessary. All Will did was crank the boost up to 14-15psi to get his numbers. Come on, take up the Will's Challenge.

 

Nice list of mods btw.

Back to what I forgot to say in my earlier post. I would be more than happy to take up the challenge if I could only get rid of this pesky fuel cut issue. Any time that I turn the boost above 11psi on my car, it hits fuel cut very badly and I have no idea how to get rid of it. I purchased an adjustable fuel cut defender, but I haven't figured out how it wires in yet. I mean, I understand what is needed to hook it up, I am just having difficulties locating the wires that I need to tap into on the car's harness. Otherwise, I'd be trying out 15psi instead of 11psi.

I would be more than happy to take up the challenge if I could only get rid of this pesky fuel cut issue.

Will is going down and he knows it. Look, he's shaking in his boots now. His days are numbered.

 

I can see the fuel cut dilemma bothering me so much that I end feeling like selling the car. It'll be interesting to see how things turn out.

Will is going down and he knows it. Look, he's shaking in his boots now. His days are numbered.

 

I can see the fuel cut dilemma bothering me so much that I end feeling like selling the car. It'll be interesting to see how things turn out.

 

*shakes head*

 

Ok Kevin..you do that....

 

Fuel cut solution is easy. MS+DIS.

fuel cut is easy.....you guys just haven't tried anything...

 

You just need to break out the soldering iron, and some resistors and stuff.

 

Hell....even a 10 cent Zener Diode will work.

fuel cut is easy.....you guys just haven't tried anything...

 

You just need to break out the soldering iron, and some resistors and stuff.

 

Hell....even a 10 cent Zener Diode will work.

That ground has been covered. You end up with a lean condition at high boost.

you will no matter what...you need to compensate for it somehow.

 

 

It's the same on every other car witha Fuel Cut. Once the FCD actually "clicks" in....the computer thinks it's making just below fuel cut for Boost......But in effect you are making 2-3 PSI more....that means the computer doesn't know about the 2-3 PSI..

 

So in the case of an EA82T....your making 15-16 PSI. but the computer only thinks you are making 12-13 PSI... There is 2-3 PSI which is basically un detected...you think it's going to run real rich????

 

 

You cannot just throw on an FCD and call it a day, and expect there to be more fuel. The stock FPR will compensate to a point....because it will still crank up fuel pressure 1 PSI for every PSI of boost...and if the injectors are still opening at the rate for 12-13 PSI you'll get a little more fuel..

 

a different type of Rising Rate will help you a little......

 

but..if you are talking about a 10 cent electrical component to cure the Fuel Cut. Then spend a 100 or so bucks on some type of enrichment circuit....like using an additional injector which turns on at 10 PSI...using the earlier 85-86 Fuel Cut Switches.... even if you do that, you are further ahead than going out and spending a couple hundred bucks on Fancy FCD....There isn't much at all to the "name brand" FCD's....they reall are almost identical to the circuit Will posted not to long ago.

Well, I have an RRFPR that is already installed. It works a heck of a lot better than the stock did. So that should be no issue. But I can't seem to get rid of the fuel cut. I'd feel okay just being able to run 12-13psi, 'cause as the saying goes," Every little bit helps!"