88 RX - EA82T

When started, rpms jump to 2000-2200 rpm. They then drop down to ab out 1500 after a few minutes. A few minutes later they are "normal." Will not kick down with throttle push (my dad's 91 Loyale will kick down). I have not had the car long enough to know if this happens in warm weather also. I always let it warm up for about 10 mins before driving.

I'm irritated by the long warm-up, but I'm most worried about the high initial rpms/lack of oil to top end causing excessive wear. I have about 5K miles on it. Oil change to Mobil 1 + filter after I got it. Added a bottle of Restore. Going to switch to a syn blend (Max-Life prolly) at next change because of extreme consumption until I can rebuild to fix (hopefully it's just a head gasket).

 

What can I do to lower the idle?

 

What weight should I use for winter temps? I have 5W-30 in it now going by Haynes temp. graphic, but the Chilton I got says to use heavier for high speed. I drive mostly highway. (Haynes may not have been for turbos?)

well considerign you are in ohio, I'd run 15W40 with a quart of MMO.. but thats just me..

 

I'm in alaska, and its been -50 F on and off for about a week and I run 5w30 no problems

 

whats the temps dipping to at night down there.. if its not gettin colder then 20 F you can still run 10w30. if its getting colder then that run 5w30 or mobil 0w30 but the mobil is like 7 bucks a quart.

I own a GL-10 Wagon w/ EA82T, and I understand what you are going through with cold weather warm-ups. The only thing that I can think of to lower the idle is block of the throttle air bypass, which is located on the top of the thermostat housing. That is the only way I can foresee to remedy the idle. Only problem with doing this is, that it will take longer to warm up than it currently does.

 

As for the oil, I use Kendall brand 10W30 in the winter, and Kendall 10W40 in the summer. I hope this helps.

Unfortuntely, like it or not, its supposed to do that.

 

Like patrick said though, you could disable the Auxiliary air valve