soobscript

The 2wd/4wd transition is shift on the fly, you can do it any time. Just use the clutch and treat it like a normal gear change. Stopped or slow speeds are ideal since there will be less shock on the drivetrain, but you can put it into 4wd at any speed. DO NOT USE 4WD ON DRY PAVEMENT, especially turning. You will get binding in the diffs/axles and break stuff. The road surface has to be a little loose to allow slippage when in 4wd. When in 4wd, the center diff is fully locked for a 50/50 torque split front/rear. The front diff is always open. You most likely have an open rear diff, by you can upgrade to an LSD if you want more traction. The steering column toggle switch is for the parking lights. It turns your corner lights on the same as the first position on the headlight stick. The headlight stalk is all ignition-switched, so your lights will go off when you turn the car off. The column parking light switch keeps the lights on even when the car is not ON or running. I have a 3door cargo cover for brown interiors.

There are dozens of different RHB5s. ^^^ from http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/mattmouth182_rag/mx6/page.html

So do EA82s normally get a VF-4?

In my years of research on here and working on these cars, I have in my head that EA82s have a VF-7 and EA81s have a VF-4 then early Leggys get a VF-11. If that is wrong we can end the discussion. It is also my understanding that the EA81T VF-4 was oil-cooled only. Well, I pulled the turbo from my 88 RX. The unit is clearly marked as VF-4, and it is water-cooled. I'm pretty sure that it is the same turbo that came in the RX with ~120k miles. The previous owner had it for a couple years and thought that it was an original motor. It could be from a different EA82, or maybe bonus junk from another car purchase, but I'm pretty sure it was my first one and daily driver. Could it be a rebuilt VF-7 with a VF-4 compressor housing (where the marking are)? One of my motors is one of the JDM imports, could it be a JDM-only legit water-cooled VF-4?

Oooh... following this project. I want to see some more fab porn.

Turn out I had the switch on for the rear wiper motor No wiper arm connected, so I never noticed.

It's never a good idea to use an electric supercharger.

I bought KYB Monomax #564002 for 96-02 Toyota 4-Runners. Looks like a good fit with a couple extra inches height. Full info in a couple weeks after I get back from a vacation in the dunes. Problem: the bottom mounting thru shock/bushing is too big on the new one. New hole is about 1/2", stock bolt/hole is about 7/16". Too much space. I need a sleeve or spacer or perfect axle bolt. Tomorrow morning. Tractor Supply Company and the local ACE didn't have anything that would work. All too big or too small and mostly in 1/4" increments. Going to try NAPA and a couple more hardware stores tomorrow. Any suggestions? Material to wrap around the bolt to make a spacer?

Yummy!

I could not find any definitive photos (what I saw could have been stock pics), but google and some vendor sites all show those options with a big spring mount (McPherson-style) and two-bolt clamps to the bottom (newer-generation front-end-style) So, if the part pics were accurate, none of those three options will work.

Having trouble finding KYB #341232 - maybe it is discontinued. KYB has something for 96-02 4-Runners that looks correct in pictures. #564002 Monomax, and #KG9025 Gas-A-Just. I'm going to order a pair from RockAuto and see how they work out. Any more info on the drilling? Which hole(s)? On shock or car? Just drilling, no tapping?

Nice find, Andrew! This is ED from COS (subscript). (you probably know this already, but) you can wire up a switch and relay for the fan if you can afford it, just but a new radiator, they're cheap

I use the Honda springs in the rear for lift. I started out with new Loyale-spec shocks, but the springs keep them extended too far (like preload?). Both shocks were blown after a few hours of wheeling. I need a shock that is taller than stock with L-series-compatible top, bottom, and spring mounts. Any advice?

Will they work for an EA82 as well? I use the Honda springs in the rear for lift. I started out with new Loyale-spec shocks, but the springs keep them extended too far (like preload?). Both shocks were blown after a few hours of wheeling. I need a shock that is taller than stock with L-series-compatible top, bottom, and spring mounts. Any advice? RockAuto's details for Rancho RS5241

That's what I use. It works... as long as it doesn't slip. New/reman calipers/pistons might fix the slippage. No. These Subaru front calipers are connected to the E-brake and need to be screwed back in. They will not compress with a clamp. The rear calipers will work with a disc brake clamp (or c-clamp).

Fixed. Rear U-joint of driveshaft.

I have a scary shake / rattle / vibration / noise coming from somewhere in my drivetrain. Seems to be speed and load dependent. The shake has a few different modes / intensities. The worst conditions are under hard accel and decel with the throttle opened minimum. Same effects in any gear, but usually worse at speeds greater than 40mph. Happens thru entire rev range, but usually most scary from 2700-3500rpm. Happens with and without clutch / neutral, but the shake is different than when in gear. '87 wagon, RX FT4wd tranny, LSD, RX springs and struts all around. Known problems: Rear diff top mount bushing is worn. The piece that connects it to the diff (plate with 4 long bolts) only has 3 bolts in use. I've gotten a little clank noise from back there for the last 2 years when changing from go-steady-slow. Rear-left axle's outer joint has some slop and occasionally grumbles at me. Driveshaft was replaced with a spare about a month ago. The last one snapped the front u-joint after making increasingly worse shakings for a month. I chalked that up to being from the totaled car in my pic. When I installed the "new" driveshaft: U-joints moved freely, I couldn't get any u-joint play with a pry bar, carrier bearing was an oval shape. I just returned from a week in the sand dunes where the car was well abused and took many hard landings. Had Accord springs on back for lift at the time. No symptoms were noticed for the 400 mile trip home. (except the wavy bouncing from blowing the shocks - not the ones on car now) What should I be checking? Driveshaft, tranny mounts, rear diff mounts...

Ideas?

My EA82T's fuel pump is very loud now. It also stays on when the key is at ACC (before starting, an after shutdown). Engine runs fine. I replaced the fuel filter, same symptoms. Old one had some restriction using the blow-thru test. Is my pump going to die soon? Is my relay the more likely culprit?

If I remember correctly, the head bolt threads are M11x1.25. Very non-standard. No parts store will have that size helicoil in stock. Check the internet... Or drill the hole bigger, get an M12 helicoil, and a new bolt/stud.

Does that "leading rod" (or whatever) offer more adjustment than the stock piece? Does the stock piece allow adjustment? (also available from rockauto.com)

Search: TD04

Very nice. Too bad they pulled out of the WRC.

I knew the EJ mounts were close, but I thought you needed EJ struts and/or a 5-lug/modified knuckle. Will stock EA82 struts fit the EJ mounts without modification? (except the three bolt holes on strut tower) I already ordered the Spicer part from RockAuto.com for $43 compared to NAPA's $73.

Mine are getting replaced. I have found these from NAPA: Looks right, but upside down. NCP2613156 "Strut Bearing Plate w/ bearing" - LINK ATM1043001 "Strut Mount" - LINK Are they the same thing, or do I need both? Are there any aftermarket upgrades (pillowball, etc) available without a 5-lug swap? uhthankyavrymch.