soobscript

Are the covers motorized like the 3rd eye setup? I want some.

TD04L from '03 WRX JDM Legacy AWIC SVT Cobra heat exhanger (made by Garrett for Ford, with OEM hardlines) JABSCO CentriPuppy pump Thanks NASIOC! Now I just need some silicone, a BPV, and custom exhuast...

Oil return on rear (as installed) of right head (1-3 side). Coolant has a port on the bottom of same head.

Stage 2, kevlar, 8 puck, sprung hub WJM hooked me up with this custom job from some clutch shop. I have used it to get moving in 3rd gear. had it mated with a Sachs XT6 pressure plate from Precison Driveline, theclutchplace@aol.com, part# SC726, ~120 shipped

$ent.

I bought an STi blank off of ebay for my RX. Handed the blank and the original to the service desk manager at walmart. He matched the blank type with his blanks to set the machine, stuck my key and blank into the machine, and handed them both to me when the machine was done cutting. Didn't charge me. No special steps, key worked perfectly.

They won't fit. Your Subaru's bolt pattern is 4x140. Old Subarus and some old Peugots are the only cars with that bolt pattern. The 4-lug wheels for sale are 4x100. You can check junkyards or modify wheels/hubs to match (Chevy 6-lugs are popular).

They're still at that price. What's the part number? Where can I find part numbers? (25 spliners)

...especially for replacing the first shifter bolt behind the tranny. Does anyone have one of those bolts laying around? It looks like the (rusted solid) roll pins have to be removed to get it out.

Yeah, when I get around to it... Both Gen3 heads I pulled from my RX were cracked like that and warped. Got very lucky (rust belt) and found a turbo motor in the yard. Even better was the fact that only 1 tiny BTV existed. Came from a 93 auto t-wag. Built the motor, wrecked the car, motor is bored now.

Pics of good and bad cracks: http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b260/soobscript/ValveCracks/

Would it be bad to put a 2.25" in/out muffler on after 2.5" mid-pipe? I'm worried about back pressure, but even the "smaller" muffler is bigger than the stock stuff before the mid-pipe cat. Currently has no muffler. I don't know what size the current exhaust is, but it is bigger than stock. I might get lucky and find out it is 2.25" to match the good muffler I'd like to use.

$30 bucks to get all 4 siped? I need to find a place like that.

The P.O. of a non-soob of mine put on a set of new Kumho PowerStar 758. Based on my experience, I will never buy Kumho's. To start, after 5,000 miles (no curb rash, nice highway driving) there was a braided steel wire sticking out of the sidewall (again, NO curb rash). I'd browse the used tire racks first. My $0.02.

A M S O I L.

I'm really liking the metallic red/maroon of a fender I have. Don't know the name of it.

i think the resistors are for current limiting... not sure though

Low. Mine were each 2.5 ohms. Not sure if this matters to MS, but there is an additional resistor in the injector circuit (with the ECU and harnesses). Resistor pack on passenger strut tower by the WGDS. Each injector has its own resistor. I don't remember the value, but it's in the FSM .pdf and the Haynes manual.

Since this thread got resurrected.... I made an offer of cash money. My jaw dropped at their response. I took 10 seconds explaining why it's not worth the price. No dice. It was no longer in the lot after about 2 weeks.

haha! ... (reads about engine locations) LOL

Let me know if you ever need to get rid of the "junk" that you upgrade.

Yes!

(summing up all the correct info already given) 13089AA010 "O" RING, 12 x 1.9mm ^ is what you need. 2 total, 1 on each side. They won't cost you $30, even with next-day shipping. What you got is a "cam case o-ring", but it goes behind the case and the camshaft, not between the cam case and head. If you are in a pinch, any o-ring with the right diameter and thickness will work (as long as it is rated for use with oil and won't dissolve).

with rear lsd and LO, i have only gotten stuck as a result of getting high-centered. like when i got blown sideways off the road down a 12ft steep steep bank in 2+ feet of snow, 2 people pushing got me out. after some testing, i will not even attempt RX/LSD/DR/Rubber stunts with a stock 4wd wagon. only 2 wheels spinning just isnt the same. i'm glad it only snowed twice this year...

You should most definitely have at least 13V with the car running. You have problems if you do not. Weak alternator, dying battery, bad ground(s), poor wire connection, etc. A healthy electrical system has ~13.5V with car off (battery voltage) and ~14.4 with the car running. (More voltage than that is another problem, you will fry components.)