Phaedras Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 I was wondering if this was something a shadetree mechanic could attempt without any major explosions. I've got manuals but I wanted to know from you guys if this is something that can be accomplished. Also, is the general setup the same across most lines of makes and models? Say, would there be much difference between a Sube disty and one that needs to be replaced on the g/fs Audi Coupe but the !*?# shop wants to charge 600$ because they suck rump roast? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Changing disty is not hard, as long as you get the right one and line it up correctly you'll be sweet. I just take a photo of the original distributer before i take it out (with the top off) and use that to line the new one up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffroid Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Good idea ! (photo). I was going to suggest to pick something on the engine that the rotor is pointing directly at, and make sure the rotor is still pointing at that spot when it goes back in. I've never seen this on any Subaru I've messed around with, but some vehicles have a slot at the base of the shaft that turns the oil pump. Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, the slot will not line up even if you don't rotate the engine and put it back the same way. Don't ask me how this happens, but it has happened to me. If this occurs, you will have to reach down with a long screwdriver and reposition the mating slot in the oil pump to get the distributor back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tizzle Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Changing the disty is very easy, helps to have a timing light, just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted March 3, 2005 Author Share Posted March 3, 2005 Say, what if the car had to be towed away a block or two, for example if one decided to cut ones losses and give the *bleep* mechanic the finger and had to tow it out of their lot to put it in oneself, would that cause the flywheel to move and mess with the timing? What if the car had electronic timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Say, what if the car had to be towed away a block or two, for example if one decided to cut ones losses and give the *bleep* mechanic the finger and had to tow it out of their lot to put it in oneself, would that cause the flywheel to move and mess with the timing? What if the car had electronic timing? So the disty is already out? Is this on your loyale or the Audi you were referring to earlier? If its on the loyale, its easy. (If its the Audi, its off to OT with you) Turn the crank (22mm socket on the crank pulley) until you get to the timing morks on the flywheel. Line up the pointer on the 20 BTDC mark. drop disty in so it points at number 1 spark plug wire. Install the 2 10mm bolts that hold disty down. Install cap. car should run. To make sure its prefect, connect diagnostinc connectors under the hood and time to 20BTDC with a light. Last EA82 disty I changed took less than 10 minutes. Some cars are even easier.. My volvo disty is idiot proof. It only goes in one way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted March 3, 2005 Author Share Posted March 3, 2005 Uhhhh.....it's the Loyale So, would physically moving the car without cranking the engine already mess up the timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 3, 2005 Share Posted March 3, 2005 Uhhhh.....it's the Loyale So, would physically moving the car without cranking the engine already mess up the timing? No, but if the disty has already been pulled, you will need to follow the above process in order to know where the new one goes in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Here ya go... 1. Crank the engine untill the first cylinder reaches Top Dead Center. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder closes to the electric fan, this is #1. Pull the rubber cover off of the bell housing so that you are able to read the numbers of advanced timing. Rotate the crank shaft by using a box wrench on the acorn type nut holding the pulley down. Stick your finger over the plug hole. You are feeling for the compression stroke, that is when the piston reaches TDC and declines to BDC without either valve opening. So when you feel air pushing from the combustion chamber (cylinder), that is when the piston is compressing the air/gas mixture. If the the crank is rotated a few more degrees (15 or somthing) the flow will change and the piston will try to suck you finger into the chamber. When moving beyond the compression stroke you are simulating the power, downward force, provided by the mixture being ignited by the spark plug. Find the spot between the two strokes and that is TDC. Now look at the flywheel or flex plate and line up the marker with the degrees BTDC indecated by your manual or our Calebz, your almost done! 2. Set the distributor. Most manuals will describe a system using two arrows... it's confusing. With the disty dis-engauged from the drive gear on the cam shaft, remove the disty cap. Rotate the shaft by turning the ignition rotor (the plastic cap with a strip of metal on the top). Since the engine is at the point which it requires a spark at the first cylinder, the rotor should be over the right over the first cylinder's spark plug wire on the disty cap. At this point you might see where the arrow system works. Set the disty into the cam, locking the gears. Check the cap one more time to make sure that the rotor is where it should be. This might take a few tries. 3. Fire her up! Replace the spark plug, cap, wire, and vac advance lines. Make sure everything is ready and then fire her up, if she will. If nothing happens but the starter cranking, that's bad. If the engine starts and sounds like crap, good. Play with the timing untill it will hold a spark so you can run to the timing gun. Don't pull out the disty from the cam until you have run out off of space but keep in mind that most likely if you did step 1 & 2 correctly it's all good but might need a second person so you a examine the timing light while someone rotates the crank using the starter. Good Luck Looks like I showed someone up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Looks like I showed someone up!! Nope.. You just made it a substantially more drawn out process than necessary. I just put a new distributor in my wagon last night, after having the timing belts off at the same time.. I will vouch 100% for the fact that the way I said works. Total time for removal and replacement of T-belts and distributor- 45 minutes. Runs great now;) EDIT. I must reiterate that it is a good idea to follow up with connecting the diagnostic connectors and using a timing light. That will allow you to fine tune as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Fair enough. We both kick a**! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royboy159 Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Can I join the rauchus? Hey Caleb----Couldn't you end up 20* BTDC on the Exhaust stroke of #1? Hey Mudis----You'll have Phaedrus looking for a vac line that isn't there. Hey Phae----Combine their two procedures and you can't go wrong. But before you flip the mechanic the finger make sure he deserves it and then I'll help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted March 4, 2005 Author Share Posted March 4, 2005 I'm just pissed because it all started as faulty "ignition module" on the, ahem, "Loyale's" distributor. They were going to charge 250-something. Then it seems like *coughboschcough* "Hitachi" doesn't make those specific parts anymore, they only sell whole distributors with cap and rotor at a whopping 350$ for the part alone. Of course, these guys didn't want to use a 180$ reman disty. So it turns out that for the time they spent ordering 2 wrong parts and figuring all this out, they were in the end going to charge approx. 600$ for the job when all was said and done. For a mofo-friggin disty replacement! So now I say, cut losses, pay for an hour or two "diagnostic" and just wheel the bastard onto the street and replace it myself, at about half the cost. In any case I thank you all wholeheartedly for all the info. USMB rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Hey Caleb----Couldn't you end up 20* BTDC on the Exhaust stroke of #1? In retrospect, I suppose you're right.. I guess I have just been lucky 10-12 times in a row Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royboy159 Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Hey Phae----Good plan. If possible, show up unannounced and drop in that new disty right on the service lot. If she fires up without retiming, just drive away and don't forget to wave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted March 4, 2005 Author Share Posted March 4, 2005 Reminds me: What do you guys think about remanufactured equipment, specifically distributors? I have the option of purchasing either one for 180$ from Cardone or one for about 250$ from Bosch, both reman. Are they really going to be any less reliable than a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Reminds me: What do you guys think about remanufactured equipment, specifically distributors? I have the option of purchasing either one for 180$ from Cardone or one for about 250$ from Bosch, both reman. Are they really going to be any less reliable than a new one? Probably yes, "rebuilt" can mean everything to sprayed with compressed air to new aftermarket modules (which perform similarly to the OEM ones, but not necc. the same), generally aftermarket stuff has poorer quality electronics too. - not sure if it is worth the $ I just get one (or two) out of a JY when I need one - much cheaper, and a good chance it works fine - usually they don't go bad, but I keep a spare anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 I might have one for you, $18. The disty is all electrical no vac advance lines. It came out of a 91? Loyale, looks alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaedras Posted March 5, 2005 Author Share Posted March 5, 2005 Thanks for the offer, but she's already gone ahead and gotten the dirty deed done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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