Well, it ran good for about a month after disconnecting the condenser but she won't fire again. It MUST have been a fluke.

 

If you don't remember the thread it's located HERE.

 

Now I pretty much know it's the ignition module. I tried to locate a distributor from a wrecker with ZERO luck. The module cost's $140 but a reman distributor with module is $175. If I have to replace the module I might as well get the distributor. (they couldn't have hidden that lockdown bolt any better either)

 

Now the question.....

How can I "hot wire" the coil to get spark for testing?

About ready to send this Sub for some Scuba diving!

I tried hotwiring it from the batt the old fashioned way with no luck. Still no fire.

 

I pulled the distributor and am waiting for the new one to come in tomorrow morning.

 

Looking at it......how do you remove the module anyway, just curious. I don't see the two bolts that are supposed to attach it.

Describe your disty, I might have one for you.

It's the electronic unit with single line vac advance.

 

Thanks for the offer but I already paid for the dist and just waiting for the new one.

 

Just hope this is the problem. I don't see how it could be anything else...have a new coil, fuses and fusible links are all good. I'll find out in a few hours (can't sleep).

Okay guys, I could use some of your experience here on this one....PLEASE.... PLEASE

 

My distributor has two electronic pieces inside. I'm assuming one is the pickup coil and the other the control module or amplifier. They sit across from one another and are half moon in shape (to fit inside dist). The wires from the ignition coil run to the first piece and then from that to the other one that I'm assuming is the pickup coil.

 

The distributor that came in today has only one piece, the control module. BUT it (module) looks totally different than mine. It is flat and has two electrical connectors protruding up. It is listed as having an integral pickup coil Just like this one.

 

Otherwise the distributor housing looks the same.

 

If I cut the two wires from the (assuming) amplifier/control module and wire them to these terminals, would this work? Has anyone run into this before?

Never mind.............it was for 4x4.

The right one is $211......

Their computer only listed the one, he had to..... GASP.......pull out the book to find the problem.

 

So, another day to wait...

Okay, new distributor (with module) did not fix it. Also bought another coil and still no spark.

 

Have 12 volts across both terminals of coil with key on (fuse is good).

 

Is there a relay somewhere that would inhibit ignition? That's what it acts like.

 

Tested the wires disconnected from coil...

Black/red (hot) gets full 12volts with key on.

Yellow/ red (ground) gets 3.46 volts with key on.

Does this point to anything???

If so what do I test next?

Just for the heck of it, try and short the terminal with the black wire of the starter to the postive post right below (on starter). This should turn the car over and (hopefully) make it run. Just want to rule out a ignition switch prob.

It will spark alot, just a warning. Make sure its not in gear either.

 

*Edit - Make sure the ign switch is on.

I tried it with no luck.

It still just turns over with no spark.

 

I have now given up... she bought another car.

I'm going to try to sell it for about $200 just to recoup some of the money we put into it. If not, I'll sell the distributor and haul it to the wrecker.

 

Thanks for the idea's guy's!