On other posts folks have advised that one should change the cam seals when doing the T Belt, What about the crank seal? Should I do it as well? How do you get any of those seals out? Just pick away at them with a sharp object? Also mentioned was changing the o ring on the oil pump, can you get at the oil pump when you remove the left cam pulley and left rear timing cover? Anything else I should be changing while I'm in there?

I had a Toyota burn through a <3k old timing belt when I was hundreds of miles from home because I wanted to 'save money' and didn't change the tensioner bearing.

 

My personal feeling s are - if you really need the highest reliabilty, you change everthing that is turned by or runs against the TB (within reason of course) AND every seal you can get to.

 

 

 

Carl

1 Lucky Texan

There are special tools to remove oil seals but i never used them myself. They are easy to remove using a small screwdriver and going in between shaft surface and seal. Be careful not to damage the shaft surface and clean the surface using very fine water sandpaper (used by bodywork repair) and penetrating oil instead of water. Putt simple bearing grease to the shaft and to the new seals to putt them in place.

The seals you need are,

Part # 806 733 010 oil seal crankshaft & oil pump, measures in mm. 33x49x8.

 

Part # 806 732 150 (2x) oil seals camshafts measures in mm. 32x45x8

 

On top of the left (driver side LH drive) camshaft there is a housing (3 bolts to remove) with a O ring, i always replace that to,

Part # 806 946 030, measures are 46.5x2mm.

 

Tightening torque crankshaft pully bolt =

103 -118 N-M / 10.5 - 12.0 kgm.

 

Good luck.

 

Urban.

Another method of getting the seal out is to drill a small hole into it using a dremmel or smiliar short drill, thread a small machine screw into the hole and pull on it. Any shavings should come out towards you, and you can wipe anything out once you have the seal out.

 

The oil pump is on the crank shaft so you have to get to it with the center cover off. There is a small o-ring behind it. Also check that the screws on the back of the oil pump are tight.

 

Matt

I actually just did my crank seal, both cam seals and timing belt this past weekend and it was an interesting job. I had to drill mine out. Make sure you have a good strap wrench for the cam sprockets before you start. I skipped the water pump but you really should replace it too if you're going to go through the trouble of getting in there.

 

 

I've never replaced a cam seal except when doing a complete engine rebuild. I've replaced the crank seal once or twice when they've leaked. I've had several engines with 220,000 miles, 180,000 miles (just last weekend replaced the water pump and t-belt but didn't touch seals) and such that I've owned (or my kids have owned). Just my experience. It's not that big of a job to get in there and do it when need be on a 2.2

Thanks for the help everyone, got the seals out without too much trouble and the new ones slipped in nicely. It looked like all 3 seals were leaking somewhat. Hopefully that will take care of it.

Lorry