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I have a '96 Legacy GT and it has been having the bucking problem in slow tight turns. It gets considerably worse when the A/C is on. Could it be a timing issue instead of a trans issue? Puzzled.

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If it's auto, it's out of my league. But if it is manual, either you need to work on your throttle control, or your IAC valve on the intake manifold is leaking (like mine was). ANYWAY, just my $.02

 

ScoobySchmitty:banana:

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oooh. Sounds like you've got the torque bind issue. Does the car have a hard time moving while turning (with the steering wheel turned all the way in one direction)? If so, then it may be the torque bind problem. It requires the replacement of the Duty C Solenoid and the extension housing. I think it's about a $800 fix.

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If you have torque bind (or whatever you call it), you may be able to fix it by changing your automatic trans fluid. I had the same problem with my 98 OBW, and I cleared it up completely with a fluid change and a change of oil in the front and rear differentials. I'm not sure which fluid change did the trick, but I'm betting it was the trans fluid. Anyway, after the changes (didn't cost a penny more than the cost of the fluids) I cannot detect the slightest binding, even on dry pavement when the wheel is cranked.

 

Maybe it's you Duty C Solenoid (I have no idea what that is), but on mine, it was just a fluid issue. I'd try the cheap and easy way first.

 

Let us know what you find out.

 

Peace,

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Thanks for the responses. If it is the solenoid (torque bind issue)would that get worse when the a/c is engaged? I'm curious only because the car is under an extended warranty and I don't want the car stealership to attempt a hosejob. The car is a '96 and only has 45,000 miles on it. One fella at the stealership tried to tell me it was a timing issue. Unbelievable.

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Being that it's an auto, you should have the tranny extension and clutch plates inspected. There are a few too many 4EAT Outbacks coming through the shop here with blown clutches in what amounts to the center diff in the 4EAT's, and it involves replacing the extension housing itself- fairly expensive if you don't get it covered under warranty.

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