the amp appears to be ok, i checked the ecu again and found out that it bit the dust. im gonna redo some wiring and put in my back up. ok so i know pin 37 is the pulse, on my ecu pinout apparenly 37 and 43 are the same? so why do the both goto the ign amp? the amp only has a spot for 1 input unless i did that wrong too, lol. i wouldnt doubt it at this point.

The reason they may have used both pins 37 and 43 is to split the current up to them.

 

To see if the ignition amp is ok you could try making a jumper lead and tie a resistor to it. Perhaps about 25 ohms may be good. Then place one side of the lead to the amp input or base and then momentarily touch the other side of the lead to ground. If the amp is ok then hopefully you will see a spark each time you touch ground. I have not tried this test myself so I can't say if it will actually work or not. It is just a guess.

ok well ive got spark now, but its wacked out. i can turn it over for say 10 seconds then stop and it will spark once right when i stop. any ideas?

The reason you are getting a spark is because the voltage is turning off and that make makes the coil generate a spark.

 

Your problem is most likely either the CAS or the ECU. I would try replacing the CAS first.

Hey Dneu----Assuming the coil checked out to specs and if the igniter transistor passed Glen's test then I'd suspect the CAS except why didn't it produce a code? This is getting interesting! Are you possibly using an older model's ECU?

well the cas is working, and the ecu is from an 87 xt. i removed all other wiring besides the cas, power, ground, and pin 37 and pin 19. pin 37 is spitting out a signal. so that means i must have the ignitor wired wrong, but ive been over it 30 times!. on the input side ive got the black and white wire as 12v ign. and the white yellow wire to pin 37. now on the output side ive got the black and white wire to (+) coil and the blue to (-) coil. and then a wire from pin 19 to (+) coil. any ideas???

You state you see the signals. What are you using to look at them with, a scope?

 

When does the blue wire go from the minus side of the coil?

well i just used a multimeter on pin 37, my first ecu just hada constant 4v signal. the new ecu has no voltage till its cranked then its a pulse signal. the igniter has 4 wires on the connecter side it has 1 black/white and one white/yellow now on the other side it has a blue and a black/white. so do i have this wrong too!??

the igniter has 4 wires on the connecter side it has 1 black/white and one white/yellow now on the other side it has a blue and a black/white. so do i have this wrong too!??

This looks right and the white/yellow is closest to the fender.

hmmm well i wonder if its the coil. im getting 12v to the - and 12v to the + when the ignition is on. but if the coil was bad then why would it spark once when cranking stops?? im gettin massivly confused on this, lol. thanks for the help guys

Since there is a spark occuring it is a good sign that the coil is ok. I need to know where the blue wire goes. You stated that one side goes to the minus side of the coil. Where does the other end go?

the blue wire goes from the ignitor to the (-) coil and the black and white wire from the ignitor goes to the (+)

Ok, well if there is signal pulses getting to the ignitor and you still have no spark and are sure the ignitior has a good ground then it seems the ignitor is at fault.

yep definatly grounded good, checked and double checked that. im so confused

Look at the ignitor as a switch. When the pulses from the ECU go to the ignitor they will turn the unit on and this will cause the output to go to ground potential. That will cause the coil to have current flow and charge the coil field. Then when the pulse changes and the ignitor turns off the current through the coil will stop and the field will collapse and a spark will be generated.

Hey Dneu----With a pulsing signal from the ECU and an occasional spark from the coil, we may be looking at a weak igniter or coil. Did you check the coil to specs?

Roy,

 

I think the reason there is a spark when he stops cranking is because it turns off the voltage to coil. Sort of what the ignitor is supposed to do. There is only one spark as there is no more voltage present to charge the field again. The ignitor is bad I believe.

well i will see what i can do about an ignitor, ive got one kicking around off a toyata celica, more headaches for me!!

I'm not sure if they are interchangable but it may work.

Roy,

 

I think the reason there is a spark when he stops cranking is because it turns off the voltage to coil. Sort of what the ignitor is supposed to do. There is only one spark as there is no more voltage present to charge the field again. The ignitor is bad I believe.

Makes sense to me if the bad igniter operates like an "open gate". ECU pulses aren't closing it. Thanks Glen.

Right Roy. If one of the junctions is bad, then the unit can't turn on and go to ground potential. Pretty simple huh. Your welcome for the help.

well i will see what i can do about an ignitor, ive got one kicking around off a toyata celica, more headaches for me!!

I think nissan also uses a similar system. But if we keep talkin like this, they'll move this thread to the crossbreed forum.

well ive got one more final observation, lol. with a test light on the - side of the coil the light will come on when the ignition is on the go out when you start cranking?, arg.

That being the case, it sounds like the ECU is turning the ignitor on continually. It doesn't sound like it is shorted or open but is working, just staying turned on and assume by the ECU. You may need to get a scope to look at the input and output signals of the ECU and the CAS.

hmmm interesting, and that makes sense. i have checked the cas many times and it functions correctly, so what would make the ecu do this?