Hi Everybody.... hope things are going good for all of you. I have a problem.. I had a 20 amp fuse blow about two weeks ago and new ones don't last long. It's the fuse that goes to: electric windows and turn signals. I took the drivers door off and unplugged the window motor and didn't use the passenger side window at all but the fuse still blows. After eliminating the window motor I put the door back together and put in a new fuse and it allowed me to use both right and left turn signals and roll up the drivers side window. First of all... this is a 1988 3 door coupe 1.8 throttlebody without turbo. It is also the manual shift 4 wheel drive. I could use some trouble shooting help .......... and I have a second question. On my previous non subaru cars the interior light came on by a ground switch that is activated at the closing of the door.... how does that happen on the subaru??? I don't see a ground switch there. I'm grateful for any help you can give. boing

It seems you cleared the short by working with the door. The wires may be damaged in the harness somewhere. Does everything work when you try to use it? If there is something not working now I would guess that was where the short was.

 

As far as the door switch, it may be in the latch mechanism.

Thanks for the reply Cougar... I do have the problem still. Even with the wires unplugged from the door I still get a short (blown fuse). because this happens so quick I'm sure it's a short rather than an overload. I have been just sitting there doing nothing at all (using nothing electrical) and the stupid thing blows. Or maybe when I go to test it by using the turn signals ... that causes it blow right away. grrrrrrrrrrrr this is pretty frustrating. Any Ideas ?????? I opened the cover of the wire thru the door and everything was intact (no broken or burnt wires). Does anybody know where the switch is that causes the dome light to come on and off with the door open and shut???? boing

You could try replacing the fuse with a brake light or head light in series with the fuse holder connections. This will limit the current through the circuit when the short happens to a safe level until you can locate the short.

 

According to my '88 manual the fuse for these items is #10 and should be a 15 amp fuse. The problem may be in the turn signal switch area.

Hi Glen.. I'm still looking but I do still have the problem. I put a 15 amp fuse in and it blew but only after driving down the road a ways. I put in another and it stayed working for the next few minutes and blew again. I've been trying to relate the problem to what I'm turning on but it's been a bugger. For example.. I turn the turn signals on either way and it doesn't blow and sometimes do nothing and it does blow. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..... frustrating bugger I can tell ya that. I thought about shortening the load with a 12 volt light but the fuses are cheaper. Thanks... if anybody else has any ideas I'm willing to try almost anything. Jerry

You can't replace the fuse with the light and run the devices also. You need to put the light in the circuit and then look for the problem. It would be good if the short stayed active so that way you have time to find it. Tapping on things with a screwdriver handle may help you locate the problem area. I would get a wiring diagram so you can isolate areas that are suspected problems easily. When the light turns bright then that means the short is active.

ok... I'll give the light a try. I do have a 12 volt camp bulb that is the size of a household light so I'll use that. I'll let ya know how things turn out. Thank You, boing

Your welcome for the help Jerry. Hope it isn't too hard to track down.

From what i've seen turn signal switches themselves are often at fault for the short. you have to pull your steering wheel and look for and smoked electronics or burnt circutry. another risky way to tell is to put a larger fuse and then look for smoke:rolleyes: . lol but keep your hand on the key and be ready to turn the ignition switch off.