My daughter just picked up a 1993 Loyale 4 dr 3sp AT. I am at a dead end. When she stops it idle downs and dies, like when you let the clutch out to fast but its and auto. I have replaced plugs, wires, rotor, rotor cap, gas filter, and, PCV.

All of this started when I replaced the air filter it was totally clogged but shortly after she starts dieing. Not sure if its related, anyone have any ideas. I don't know what the problem is. Runs fine when moving. Checked all vac hoses could not find any loose.

Thanks for help

Bob

Could be the idle switch needs adjusted or the Idle Air Control Valve isn't working.

I looked at what you said about the idle control valve and checked on prices. I got desperate then, they are outragiously high. I went back to some other posts and found one where they suggested unhooking the battery for awhile. This would make the computer relearn the car. Well it worked the idle is still low but no dyeing out at all even with a full load a/c, high beams, raidio, and fan running.

 

Do you know what the rpm idle should be on this thing? Is the idle screw receased on the passenger side of the intake body?

 

Thanks for the suggestions, I figure if I keep working on the kids cars someday I will know what I'm doing

 

Bob<><

Yeah, I know what you mean about parts. Get to know a junkyard,er I mean an auto recycler, plus advertise on this board for parts.

 

 

I think idle should be 750 - not sure about the automatic, I have a 5 speed.

 

At least on mine, the idle screw is just where you say. You get to it from the front with a flat blade screwdriver, a little tight, but nothing major. Once you adjust that, you'll need to adjust the idle switch, which is part of the Throttle Position Sensor - the black thing on the driver side of the intake that has a rectangular electrical connector on it. I believe the technique is here on the board somewhere.

 

It's technically easy, but takes a little time. You need a multimeter and have to loosen two screws to adjust it - It's a bear to get to them, too, but if the switch doesn't close it most likely won't idle right.

 

I would consider running some Marvel Mystery Oil or SeaFoam through it to clean it out, too.

Sounds like you got out of the idle control valve thing, but you usually can avoid buying a new one by cleaning them out - they get clogged up pretty easily.

Hey, which state are you in?

I live in Grafton North Dakota. I'm a transplant from North Carolina.

Bob,

This problem is very common to the SPFI cars

which she has, after checking for any broken vacuum lines,

clean the IAC (see below)

 

 

 

 

The IAC valve (Idle Air Control) as mentioned is no doubt the culprit.

 

These get gummed up and need cleaned.

 

I would put this on the normal maintance list

 

Try these posts

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27893&highlight=idle+control+valve

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32704&highlight=idle+control+valve

 

 

Hope this helps

Does the car have a MAP senser?

we had a ford the did the same due to a faulty MAP sensor there is also something called a MAF valve I think

But, it does sound like it may be a vacume issue, if it is FI

 

Oh OH Oh and what about a TPS (Throtle position sensor) does it have one of those?????

Sorry Firstsubaru... no MAP - not on Subaru untill 2000

 

The MAF is a sensor not a valve. If bad car runs poor at all speeds

 

It does have a TPS (Thottle Position Sensor).

They rarely go out of adj. but you are correct in so much that

the idle switch is incorporated in this device.

 

This problem is so common., please read the links I provided

 

The IAC valve should be cleaned each time the oil is changed.

Skip is absolutely right. Use Vice Grips to get to the screws that hold the IAC on, and it's and easy job. The power steering pump is in the way if you use a screwdriver.