Still looking for a Gen2 Brat (and I can't believe how expensive they've become since I last looked a few years ago) - but I'm already planning out modifications to it. To give some background, this is going to replace my daily driver Cherokee as a commuter / medium-duty trail machine, with the Jeep being kept for heavier-duty off-roading and load lugging. I've been doing a lot of reading up on the stuff that people are doing to their Subes, but have a few questions.

 

- Transfer case / transmission. First thing on the list would be an EA82 5-speed swap (I'm only looking for a manual); does anyone have any tips on regearing the D/R case to a lower low range? 1.4:1 would make some of the hills I'd be running *very* scary on the descent; 1.8 or 2.0:1 would be much better. For simplicity's sake, I'd really prefer to avoid going the divorced Nissan t-case route.

 

- Skid plates. I'm guessing this is a DIY thing from what I've seen so far - haven't found anyone with them in production. Similarly, is anyone doing rocker protection?

 

- Seats. Virtually every Brat I've looked at has shot seats; I'd like to replace them with Forester seats as seen in this Craigslist ad. Does this involve fabricating brackets / adapters, or are they a straight drop-in? Are there any other models that swap straight in?

 

- Suspension. I realise this is a fully-independently-sprung vehicle, so lifting is quite a bit different to the live axle world. While I understand that lowering the subframes is done to the keep the axle angles sane, what I'm not getting is how this affects the driveshafts - are they a double-cardan type, or is there a slip yoke on the t-case? Also, going hog wild on height (4" should be plenty) isn't the intention here, but from looking at some of the pictures in the articulation thread, it looks like there're some wheel movement issues under flex. What has me particularly curious is this picture: looking at the rear tire, it appears to be being pulled forward from centre.

 

Finally, can anyone recommend from experience a lift kit in the 4" range, preferably with links to it? I've looked at Allied Armament's kit and it seems good, but I'd like to do some comparison shopping. Thanks!

http://www.ausubaru.com/byb/

Backyard Boys

 

http://www.oregonoffroadsubaruclub.org/

Mudrat lifts those things too. His site is down

 

http://www.scorpionsubaru.com/

Scorpion makes quality stuff.

 

Heres three other lifts.

 

Gearing....so far the divorced T case is the only real solution...

Many folks are trying to develop other ways but no one has nailed it yet.

 

The rear suspension will drop forward because of it's trailing arm design.

A lift is the only way to avoid tire rub with a stock suspension.

 

Good Luck,

Glenn

82 SubaruHummer

84 GL Mad Max

01 Forester

For a Brat you'll probably want a BYB lift.

What has me particularly curious is this picture: looking at the rear tire, it appears to be being pulled forward from centre

 

hey! that's my car!

 

 

I just used MS paint to put a dot where the trailing arm pivot point is. this means that the hub cannot get any closer, or further away from that point. so on upflex, the tire goes back, and on downflex, the tire moves forward some. but no issues, the high-clearance lift does put too much stress on the axles to be doing anything really nuts (I'm going to get a drop-plate from SJR for my diff), but not too bad.

 

 

the independent suspension design means that the diff doesn't move, so the driveshaft doesn't need to compensate for anything, it's just dropped down with everything else

 

 

BYB is the specialty on EA81 style lifts, however, I've hear that PK Davis isn't making them, at least for awhile. check the FAQ for the link to his site

 

AA makes EA81 lifts, and they do great work! and have other options that are easier on axle angles too.

 

SJR makes lifts, not sure about EA81 or not, but I bet he does, mostly higher ones, 6-8" or so.

 

and if your in the area, Mudrat79 can make one.

 

 

Oh yea...and let me know if you find a way to lower the gearing! not much possibility there though...

Thanks to everyone for the replies - you've given me some good food for thought. I'd still be interested in hearing about the seat swaps, though...

 

hey! that's my car!

 

Nice job! I really like that one.

 

I just used MS paint to put a dot where the trailing arm pivot point is. this means that the hub cannot get any closer, or further away from that point. so on upflex, the tire goes back, and on downflex, the tire moves forward some. but no issues, the high-clearance lift does put too much stress on the axles to be doing anything really nuts (I'm going to get a drop-plate from SJR for my diff), but not too bad.

 

Okay, now I understand what's going on; it actually sounds like a fairly similar setup to what I used to have on my Peugeot 505. Out of curiosity, what size are the tires you've got on there now? I have a set of those rims laying around, so figure I'll use them once I've actually got the car and it would be nice to know what I can get away with Seeing it in close-up helped, too - there's more space between the wheel and arch than I realised.

 

Oh yea...and let me know if you find a way to lower the gearing! not much possibility there though...

 

Yeah, the only other idea I had on that was a selectable underdrive (nice from the standpoint of being able to retain 1.4:1), but they're expensive. The 2.70:1 Klune-V Suzuki Samurai unit may be able to be adapted, but would probably also take a lot of work. I'm also not sure you'd want to run it in compound low; something tells me that the Sube's drivetrain wouldn't like that much torque.

They're 215-75-r15's come out to almost 28" tall, and that picture is on level ground, no articulation...

 

problem with lower gears, is there (apparently, I've never torn one apart) isn't any extra room in the tranny for larger gears...