Crank seal

[Dickensheets]

After reading a related thread about a bad Napa seal I ordered OEM seals for my DOHC. Question is, do I need any sealant or do I tap them in clean. This will be my first job of this nature.

 

Thanks, Ryan

[bartt]

Tap it in clean, its a seal for a rotating shaft. It should press into the block nicely. Be careful not to score the crank getting the old one out.

You'll be in where you should probably look at replacing the timing belt and water pump also. Unless you've just done them..

I suggest pulling the radiator and AC condensor and the grill so you can get to the seal and see what you're doing..

HTH..

[Dickensheets]

Yeah, I will be doing the T-belt and have a few seals handy just in case.

 

 

Ryan

[lmdew]

2" PCV coupling is just the right size to use as a driver. Take a good look as how far the old seal is installed. You do not tap it all the way home!

[idosubaru]

good call on the depth of install. when installing the new seal be sure to oil the outside and grease the inside (where it will ride against the crank shaft.

 

don't jam it home if it starts to go in cocked. keep it going straight in the whole time.

[Dickensheets]

Thanks Guys

[NOMAD327]

This is the part where everybody talks about the o-ring and checking the screws on the back of the oil pump. Grey engine assembly RTV is used on the block to pump seal area. When the oil pump is off, the seal contact area of the shaft will be more visible. Should the shaft be scored, pick a slightly more or less deep location to set the new seal so the lip rubs on a new spot.

[blitz]

Take a good look as how far the old seal is installed. You do not tap it all the way home!

Does this apply only to the DOHC?

 

The seals that I removed from my SOHC 2.2 looked like they were fully seated, so I did likewise with the replacements.

 

No problems so far (crossed fingers).

[NOMAD327]

The seals will work perfectly in any axial position so long as they are positioned square in the bore and the rubber lip is not cut sliding them over any threads or steps in the shaft during installation. (a trick here is to wrap some thin durable material around the shaft and once the seal is over any bad areas, slide the wrap out of the way. Then grease and slide a bit to ensure the rubber is not twisted anywhere). On a high mile engine, even a perfectly installed rubber seal properly lubed will wear a thin groove at it's contact point with the steel shaft, I believe this happens because microscopic wear particles imbed in the rubber and are held like sandpaper. This only happens at very high miles, and in this case, a simple fix is to slide the seal slightly in or out in it's bore so the lip rubs in a new slightly different spot on the shaft. This assumes the housing design has that axial clearance present that you can do this. If it doesn't leak now, it will not start leaking in the near future.