I am planning on flushing my radiator and i need to know what kind of tool i need to drain the block. It is a hexhead of some size and i guess i need to buy one, if anyone knows what i should ask for. again it is a 97 outback. thanks for anyhelp.

I am planning on flushing my radiator and i need to know what kind of tool i need to drain the block. It is a hexhead of some size and i guess i need to buy one, if anyone knows what i should ask for. again it is a 97 outback. thanks for anyhelp.

I don't know the specific tool off hand (call the nearest dealer's shop techs) but I do know YOU MUST BE SURE TO GET ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM BEFORE YOU DRIVE... the theory is: the trapped air overheats & blows the Headgasket....

do a search on the technique necessary.

Later,

Peter

thanks, i will do another search.

I am planning on flushing my radiator and i need to know what kind of tool i need to drain the block. It is a hexhead of some size and i guess i need to buy one, if anyone knows what i should ask for. again it is a 97 outback. thanks for anyhelp.

 

ALso use the subaru coolant, the recomended additive, and demineralized water. May cost a little bit more, but it does help things last longer.

 

 

nipper

I bought the type of 50/50 coolant that the manual recommended , are you talking about something from Subaru? I am still not sure of the tool i need to undo those two block plugs, i havent found it in my searches(yet).

Does everybody agree that pouring coolant into the top hose is the best bet against air lock? i am going to try and do it in the next few days, but i want to definetly avoid the trapped air problem. in advice is great.

The tool you need to get those plugs out is a 14mm hex head socket (looks like an "Allen Wrench"). They are available in a set from Autozone in 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm (I think). Completely draining all the old coolant out is not strictly required, as long as you get most of it out. The procedure to get all the air out after replacing the coolant is "burping" If you do a search you will find some very good descriptions on how to do this, so I will not waste the space here.

some people in other posts say that removing those 2 block plugs can be a problem and that removing the thermostat is the way to go. any opinions?

Thanks Gnuman

some people in other posts say that removing those 2 block plugs can be a problem and that removing the thermostat is the way to go. any opinions?

Thanks Gnuman

 

I go with the thermostat. Much easier, and the tools are a 10mm wrench, and a screwdriver. Oh, and you are very welcome. I do this a fair bit as I pull engines for some of the work I do on them, and I have never had occasion to pull one of those plugs out yet. I will soon though, as I just scored a block heater on an engine that I just yanked out of a totaled OBW for my boss. Gonna put that in Emily just in case I get work up in the frozen north. . .

All advice here is good stuff. These guys know their stuff.

 

But just to diversify the responses I'll tell you that I just simply drain the petcock and refill through the rad-cap while engine is running. Burping through the bleed valve on top right of radiator is a must.

 

rd 97 obw

Pulling the thermostat gives a real good drain, if really concerned, park on a slight downhill grade first. Always good to replace the thermostat in any case. (use genuine subaru replacement) The best refill by far is to pull the top radiator hose at the radiator and pour coolant down into the motor through the hose. This overcomes the normal roadblock the bottom mounted thermostat creates. Also fill the radiator and then replace the hose. This ensures at least a 90 percent fill. It works slightly better on a slight uphill slope, but I have had no problems doing the initial fill on a downslope or on the level. This is an engine you do not want to overheat.