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99 2.2 T-Belt Tensioner ????

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My books stop at 98 and I'm doing a timing belt on a 99 2.2.

 

If you can answer these questions for me that would be Great!

 

Tensionner Reset procedure?

 

Tensionner Bolt Torque?

 

Any other differences on T-belt installation that you know of?

 

I take it the crank torque is still 125 ft lbs.

Thanks, Larry

As far as resetting the tensioner:

 

Very slowly crank it in using a vise. Take your time so you don't screw the thing up, just a bit at a time. Then get the holes lined up and insert a nail or allen wrench inot it to hold it.

 

Torque would probably be the same as earlier models, as it's more then likely the same size bolt.

I have 90-98 Haynes manual. It list the tensioner mounting bolts as 17-20 ft-lb for 90-97 and 26-32 ft-lb for 98. I would assume a 99 would be the same as a 98. Make sure you move all the way toward the idler pulley before you torque it and release it. The idler pulley is listed as 26-32 ft-lb for years 90-98.

 

Hope this helps

 

Ty

Make sure to pay attention to what was said above about taking your time to compress the tensioner, the manual says over a period of 5 min I think. Trying to go faster will ruin it. Take your time.

  • Author

The 99 has the new style tensionner, which is why I asked the questions. Anyone with a 99 & up manual?

 

Thanks, for the input, Larry

As far as resetting the tensioner:

 

Very slowly crank it in using a vise. Take your time so you don't screw the thing up, just a bit at a time. Then get the holes lined up and insert a nail or allen wrench inot it to hold it.

 

Torque would probably be the same as earlier models, as it's more then likely the same size bolt.

And when you compress it make sure you do so vertically, not horizontally.

And when you compress it make sure you do so vertically, not horizontally.

 

Bingo.

 

The old tensioners are horizontal, and they need to be compressed horizontally, which means they can be compressed in a plain old vise you might have attached to your workbench. The new-style tensioners however need to be compressed vertically, which might mean you will have to take it to a shop to have them compress it for you (play your cards right and they won't charge you for it).

 

The way the hydraulics work in the tensioner requires that they face those particular directions, or the seals inside them might start leaking.

 

Now, I have compressed a new-style vertical tensioner horizontally before, and to date, the owner of the car hasn't told me of any problems. But if she has the car long enough to do it a second time, I'll ask that she replace the tensioner next time.

Bingo.

 

The old tensioners are horizontal, and they need to be compressed horizontally, which means they can be compressed in a plain old vise you might have attached to your workbench. The new-style tensioners however need to be compressed vertically, which might mean you will have to take it to a shop to have them compress it for you (play your cards right and they won't charge you for it).

 

 

Or you can unbolt your vise like I did and used it vertically, then bolted it back up.

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