Hello all. I have a 1987 Gl-10 Turbo, with a D/R. It seems like it is miss firing. I let it warm up and when it gets to operating temp and I pull the #3 plug wire, the idle doesn't change.

 

All the other cylinders make a difference if I pull the corresponding plug wire. I also pulled the injector wire off the 3rd cylinder and it does change the idle a little, but I notice a big difference when I am driving without the 3rd injector.

 

I haven't done a compression check, there isn't gas in the oil or water in the oil (or vice-versa). I said that because it is the infamous 3rd cylinder on a turbo...the one that tends to burn up first.

 

Thanks for you time,

Justin.

Whats the plug look like?

 

Whats the resistance in the plug wire?

 

How's the inside of your disty cap look like?

 

How do they cram the duck inside the turky when they make turducken?

 

 

 

 

 

Even if the plug looks good on the inside, make sure that the enamel isn't cracked, or it may be bypassing the important parts.

You might be having the situation I had where adjusting the timing did nothing. Take the car on the highway, and drive for 10, 15, 20 minutes in a low gear so the engine revs about 4k, 5k. Decoke it, in other words. If carbon buildups are sufficient in the cylinders, they can start glowing red or white hot inside the cylinders, igniting the gas just before the spark plug can.

Oh, believe me when I say, there isn't any carbon on those cylinder walls.

It's possible you're having valve issues. I would run two compression tests one dry and one wet. For the wet test, put a few drops of oil into the cylinder. If the compression is higher in this test it is likely that your valves are disfunctional. You can also do the poorman's compression test to start; put your finger over the plug hole to see if you're getting any compression at all.

 

Is it a constant miss or a constant performance decrease with an irregular/loud miss? I had a burned valve in my '86 wagon and it was the later.