Rear crank seal, flywheel lock tips (photo)

[a97obw]

Finishing up the head gasket/clutch job on my 97 Legacy Outback wagon, so I thought I'd share a couple tips.

 

First off, if you are going to remove and replace the rear main crankshaft seal, this was the ticket to install the new seal. It is a PVC cap, it is 4" in outside diameter and about 3/16" thick. I put a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper on the floor and then in a swirly motion sanded any sharp edges/casting marks from the cap. Worked like a champ driving in the new seal with a rubber mallet. Just get it going in straight and check it several times!

 

 

 

 

 

The other tip is for holding the flywheel in order to tighten it onto the crankshaft, along with tightening the front crank pulley. Simply use one of the pressure plate bolts and screw it in the flywheel leaving it not quite all the way threaded in, then find a piece of wood. In my case, this particular stake is called a "flat". Go find your local Surveyor and ask him for a "flat" and not a "hub". He'll be impressed you know the difference!

[Setright]

Nice. Thanks for sharing

[Subaru_for_LIfe]

Hello, I just found this thread doing a search. I have a quick question if you don't mind. I'm in the process of rebuilding my EJ22 and I'd like to know how far back do I have to drive in the rear main seal?

 

I'm also using the 4" PVC also and the seal was pretty tight until 2/3 of the way in, then loosened up a bit once I drove it in all the way against the back. Haynes manual says to drive it in to the original depth, but I didn't mark the depth when I took it out.

 

Thanks in advance and how's your engine running now by the way?

 

Pye

[idosubaru]

you are good to ask, the wrong depth is a bad thing and the rear main is not something you want to install wrong. seen a few threads where recently installed rear mains gave out. i believe you install until the outer edge of the lip is finally within the sealing surface of the block. at that point there is no need to drive it any further. having it set out past the sealing portion (but it appears it's "inside" the tappered portion, if there is one on the EJ22) is not far enough. someone who knows this motor better can give specifics.

[Gnuman]

Outside of the seal flush with the rear surface of the block is fine.

[Subaru_for_LIfe]

Thank you for your help folks. I wish I'd found this board sooner, there are so many knowledgeable and helpful people on this board.

 

I don't think I can pull the seal back out without damaging it, time to order a new one I guess.

 

Thank you all.

[a97obw]

Wow! Somebody actually dug up one of my posts and brought it back to life! Ok, this is where a digital camera is worth its weight in gold to take pictures of things before you take them apart. Note the placement of the original factory installed rear main seal of my 97 Outback 2.5 engine (5 speed manual transmission, if that matters):

 

 

Ohh....thats pretty bad. How about this one:

 

 

 

The seal was coated lightly with engine oil around the outer perimeter and then driven to a depth of having the outer edge of the seal coincide with the inner edge of the chamfer on the case. I don't think that mine was leaking at 91k miles and 9+ years. All the (minimal) leakage I'm sure was from the plastic oil seperator plate that I replaced with the aluminum one. The car has been driven about 4k miles since the repairs and I'm happy to report hasn't leaked a drop of oil from anywhere!

[JPX]

Here is a bit from my recent engine replacement:

 

It was a hassle getting in - most oil seals are small enough to use a socket or something. This 4" or so thing kept getting ****-eyed. But I was able to set it in at the same depth the old seal was at. Basically it is flush with the block surface but just a little bit below about halfway down the chamfer.